.....rigging the boat
FIG. 9-1 - Putting the mast in
position is called "stepping the mast". With the pivoting mast step
shown in this boat, the mast is placed in the step with one person pulling
forward with the forestay or jib halyard, and a second person pushing forward
and steadying the mast. |
STEPPING THE MAST
Stepping the mast means putting the
mast on the boat so it can receive the sails. Fig. 9-1 shows a mast being
stepped on a small catamaran. Since the first time you will step the mast will
probably be on land, the first thing to do is make sure there are no overhead
obstructions in the way, ESPECIALLY ELECTRICAL WIRES! Also, the mast stepping
arrangement must be in place. On boats with wood spars, there must be a way for
any water that may settle in the mast step (either from rain coming down the
inside of the spar or from water on deck) to drain out, or rot will be
promoted. With aluminum spars, the same applies, but not for the same reason.
While stainless steel and aluminum are fairly compatible, there is still some
corrosive action between the two in saltwater conditions, and because the
fastenings at the mast base area will probably be stainless steel, corrosion
could occur if salt water were allowed to remain between the two metals.
If the mast is of the aluminum
pivoting type, a stiffener is often used in the base to provide extra bearing
for the pivot bolt. With pivoting masts, it may be necessary to radius the
bottom corners of the spar to allow it to pivot into position. When wood masts
are used in conjunction with a pivoting mast step, the mast should not bear
directly on the deck or cabin top, but should be supported by the large bolt in
the mast step fitting, thereby preventing rot by water staying in the step. To
raise a mast with a pivoting mast step, insert the bolt through the mast in the
step, connect the shrouds to the chainplates initially if possible, have one
person aft and under the mast pushing up forward, and have another person
pulling directly ahead with the forestay or jib halyard.
Most masts are stepped with some
degree of "rake", or angle from vertical when viewed in profile. This
rake may be built into the boat, but usually the builder must align the mast to
the proper rake. With masts that step onto the keel or through the deck, wedges
of wood can be used at the hole through the deck to maintain the angle along
with the tension of the stays. On masts stepped on deck or on the cabin top,
the rake of the mast must be maintained by stay adjustment. Mast rake is
usually noted in inches per length of mast, and should be maintained per the
designer's specifications for proper performance, at least initially. One
method of determining the rake is to affix a line to the top of the mast with a
plumb bob attached to the lower end. The boat must be leveled first. The line
should be the length of the mast from the masthead to the base point from which
the rake is measured. The rake is then measured from one side of the mast to
the plumb bob line. When the correct distance is obtained, the stays can be set
up. To keep the plumb bob steady, it can be dropped in a container of water.
Another method for determining mast rake is to make up a shim or template equal
to the amount of rake. Then use a builder's level held vertically and tilt
the mast so that one side aligns with the shim held between the level and the
mast. Again, the boat must first be leveled.
FIG. 9-2-How NOT to adjust tension on stays. Tension
should be set up so that the spar is free of curves or bends when sighting up
along the length. |
SETTING UP THE STANDING RIGGING
When the rake has been determined,
the standing rigging can be set up. If your boat has diamond stays or jumper
stays, these should be installed and set up taut before the mast is stepped. It
is difficult if not impossible to state what the tension on stays should be.
The best guide is common sense, at least in the beginning. Don't set the
stays up so taut that the mast resembles any of the examples shown in Fig. 9-2.
Stays should not be set so tight that they "sing" when plucked by
hand, or cause the mast to bend. Diamond and jumper stays should be set up very
tight, while the lower shrouds are usually set up "hand tight" only.
Use the forestay to maintain the mast rake, and the backstay or shrouds (if no
backstay is used) to put tension on the forestay. The forestay should also be
very tight, especially if a jib is used. Where upper and lower shrouds are
used, the upper shrouds usually are set up slightly tighter than the lower
shrouds. On simple three stay rigs using stay adjusters on the shroud, use the
forestay turnbuckle to put tension on the rig. When setting up your rigging,
make sure the boat is level and that there is little wind so the mast will not
exert tension of its own. Also, shroud tension should be equal on each side,
even though the shrouds to windward when sailing on a tack will be taut, while
those to leeward will be slack.
Once the tension is set, the
turnbuckles should be locked in position. If stay adjusters are used on the
shrouds, these can be set and kept in this position at all times. The
turnbuckle on the forestay is then used to put tension in both the forestay and
shrouds.
SETTING UP THE RUNNING RIGGING
Having mocked up the deck fittings
and hardware once and fastened them in position, there is little more required
to set up the running rigging. The lines used for the various sheets should be
cut to the correct lengths and the ends "whipped." The lengths of the
sheets should be determined when the boom or the jib is at the maximum point of
travel. For the boom, it should be swung outboard so it is almost at 90 degrees
to the hull centerline. The jib sheets should be long enough so it can be
"tacked" or pulled across the boat from side to side without the
slack side of the jib sheet being pulled free from the jib sheet creating
device or fitting. WHIPPING the ends of lines means fixing them so they will
not fray or unwind along the braids. The traditional method of whipping is
shown in numerous books on "marlinspike seamanship," but on small
boats using synthetic lines, an easier way is to use a liquid compound made
especially to "seal" the end of the line. Another
"makeshift" way to do the job quickly is to merely light a match and
let the flame "melt" the strands together if the material is
synthetic. As noted previously, it is a good idea to make a good-sized knot in
the running end of sheets to prevent them from running out the blocks if they
should get away from the crew. In reeving the lines through the various blocks,
start with the "dead" end of the line first and reeve to the working
or running end. The dead end of a line is best fitted with a spliced eye or
tied in a good knot at the fitting being attached. Wire rope halyards should be
fitted with an eye to a rope at the running end, or spliced directly to the
rope line. Use shackles or Brummel hooks to attach the halyards to the sails.
Check all running rigging to see that all lines operate smoothly, that the
sails will raise and lower without incident, and that there is a place for all
lines to lead without confusion. If the sail tends to bind in the mast groove,
a little paraffin will usually smooth things out. Check at all possible points
for chafe of both the sails and all lines, and if there are any points which
could cause undue wear, they should be rectified. Particular points to check
are spreader tips, turnbuckles in way of jib sheets, and fittings along the
spar in way of halyards. Go through the rigging process several times until you
have it down to a "system". By this time you will know all the parts
by name and what they do.
HELM BALANCE AS IT RELATES TO RIGGING
Sailboat balance simply means
whether a boat has a "weather" or a "lee" helm. A boat with
a "weather" helm tends to head into the wind if the tiller is
released, eventually coming to a complete halt when the bow faces directly into
the wind (discounting drift). A boat with a "lee" helm tends to bear
away from the wind if the tiller is released, and ultimately causing the boat
to go in the direction the wind is blowing. When sailing on courses more or
less into the direction of the wind, balance is important. A boat with too much
lee helm could be dangerous if the tiller was released, as a capsize might
occur. A boat with too much weather helm, however, would only tend to head into
the wind too quickly. The problem with too much weather helm is that it
requires too much effort to steer the boat thereby wearing out the helmsman,
plus it cuts down on the speed of the boat. So the ideal balance is when very
little effort is required on the tiller to keep the boat on course AND when the
tiller is released, the boat will head gently into the wind. A theoretical
discussion of balance would include the relation between the Center of Effort
(CE) of the sails, and the Center of Lateral Resistance (CLR) of the hull,
which is not within the scope of this book. All the average sailor wants to
know is how to correct his boat so it has the proper balance, and that's
what will be discussed here.
The listing below gives many options
that can be tried in order to arrive at a balanced helm. Not all items listed
are practical for all boats. Obviously it is best to start with the easy things
first in the hopes that these will do the trick. Also, it is desirable to use a
combination of these changes in minute degrees until the proper balance is
achieved. Note that balance wilI change with many factors. For example, a boat
with good balance in light winds might develop a strong weather helm in heavy
winds. This would cause the boat to turn quickly into the wind if the tiller is
released, which is not a bad quality if not pronounced. The point is that
balance is a dynamic problem that can be constantly changing depending on crew
loading, wind conditions, and with the sails used. So if you think you need to
change the balance, first consider your sailing conditions before making
drastic modifications. Remember, it is always desirable to have at least a
little weather helm under all conditions. Here are the changes that can be
made:
TO DECREASE WEATHER HELM:
1. Step mast farther forward
2. Decrease rake of mast
3. Mount centerboard farther aft
4. Lift centerboard up slightly
when sailing to windward
5. Move crew weight farther aft
6. Sail boat more upright
7. Increase size of jib
8. Decrease size of mainsail
9. Locate jib farther forward
10. Use mainsail with less fullness of shape |
TO INCREASE WEATHER HELM:
1. Step mast farther aft
2. Increase rake of mast
3. Mount centerboard farther forward
4. Drop centerboard to full down
position when sailing to windward
5. Move crew weight farther forward
6. Sail boat at greater angle of heel
7. Decrease size of jib
8. Increase size of mainsail
9. Locate jib farther aft
10. Use fuller shaped mainsail shape |
Chapter 10
Contents
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