Applying Finishes Over Epoxy Coated Surfaces
by Glen-L Marine Designs
As a general rule, we advise
against spray application of paint systems unless already an
expert and has the proper facilities to assure sound, safe
results. With a good paint system, properly applied,
excellent results are possible by the amateur without using
spraying methods (rollers and brushes work well with many
systems).
Some builders ask the question about pigmenting one or all
of the various coats of POXY-SHIELD® used with the GLEN-L
Epoxy Encapsulation System. Pigments should not be used with
the first coat as this can effect penetration ability.
Pigmenting of the resin is optional and has drawbacks as well
as a couple of advantages. Any pigment used must be
compatible with epoxy resins. Pigmenting may increase the
viscosity of the resin so don't add more than about 2% by
volume. The depth and intensity of most pigments are not
enough to eliminate the need for paints which have much
higher pigment content. Also, pigments may decrease the
resin's moisture absorbing resistance. The addition of
pigments will not make resin into a paint; it will still need
to be sanded, sometimes resulting in an uneven color.
Adding pigments can serve as a guide when sanding a coat of
resin, since over-sanded areas turn lighter indicating that
no more sanding should be done in that area. Pigments also
allow visual control of the coating thickness being applied.
Pigments can also be added to the final coating to match the
color of the final paint system, giving a pre-colored paint
base perhaps eliminating the need for undercoats. In short,
pigments can be used, but they are far from a necessity, and
will not eliminate the need for a final paint coating.
Before doing any finish work or applying finishes, allow the
last coat of epoxy to cure 5 to 7 days at 70 degrees F,
longer at colder temperatures. Wipe down the hull with a
water/ammonia dampened rag or sponge. This will eliminate the
greasy feeling amine blush to make final finish sanding
easier and minimize clogging of the abrasive.
lf you have been careful in your application of resin with
all coats, making sure each is evenly applied, and have taken
care to prevent runs and sags, and to correct mistakes along
the way, the finishing process should be relatively easy.
Final finish work will vary depending on the quality of
surface which is desired, whether the surface will be
naturally finished or painted, and whether or not a sanding
undercoat will be used.
Final finish sanding is usually done with either an orbital
sander or hand sanding block. lf you wish to use a disc
sander, equip it with one of the foam backing disc pads which
will minimize gouges. lf you have not used a disc sander,
some practice may be in order since these can easily damage a
surface. The rpm of the disc sander should be kept relatively
low (around 2000 rpm) since it is possible to scorch the
resin surface if rpm's are too high.
Start out sanding with a 60 to 80 grit open coat paper,
advancing to a 120 to 180 grit. For many builders, this will
yield good enough results for painting, but for a high-gloss
natural finish, work up through finer grits as required,
ending off with a 220 to 280 or even finer grit wet-or-dry
paper using wet sanding techniques. Be careful not to remove
too much resin by sanding, and if it looks as though too much
sanding will have to be done, it may be better to apply more
coats of POXY-SHIELD®.
Note that POXY-SHIELD® will not in itself provide a
perfect "bar top" finish, even when flow coating.
Although the epoxy has high gloss properties, it is not a
final finish. An ultimate final high-gloss brightwork finish
is best achieved through finish sanding and coating with
varnish or comparable clear coating products, and such is
required for all exterior use for U-V protection.
lf using varnish, apply at least two coats (more is usually
better) of a U-V stabilized varnish or clear polyurethane
product. lf your surfaces are to be naturally finished, it is
preferred to use only Fast hardener for all coats for a
faster cure and better long-term clarity. lf the resin cures
more slowly, such as with the use of the Slow hardeners, a
potential exists for clouding of the clear coating in the
presence of moisture.
CLEAN UP, SOLVENTS, & THINNERS
Epoxy resin products can be messy and get on surfaces where
they are not wanted. They should be removed before they cure
to avoid having to grind them away later. This is especially
important when gluing around interior areas or on surfaces
where visual appearance will be important. While the resin
should be cleaned up before it cures, there is no particular
rush to remove immediately as it exudes from a joint. In
fact, as it stiffens up a bit, removal is actually easier
since there won't be as great a tendency to spread it
around while it is still fluid, especially the with
POXY-SHIELD® due to its thinner viscosity. However,
don't wait too long or the resin will cure hard. Nothing
can remove the resin at this point other than sanding.
Excess resin can be removed with thin sticks of wood, putty
knives, or similar tools. Don't let the uncured epoxy
fall to the ground or floor where it will stick to anything
and everything or get tracked around; scrape it off into a
container. Then wipe surfaces that are to be cleaned using a
lint-free rag soaked with a proper solvent.
DENATURED ALCOHOL is the best and probably the safest
solvent from a bodily contact standpoint (although it is
flammable). Ordinary mineral spirits (paint thinner) is also
relatively safe. Other solvents are more hazardous, from a
vapor inhalation and/or flammability standpoint, as well as
from long-term health affects.
ACETONE is a very effective solvent but has a relatively
high evaporation rate, making it necessary to keep the
container closed at all times when not in use for safety and
economy. The main problem with acetone is that it is highly
flammable. Any wood boatbuilding situation offers the
potential of a fire hazard, and therefore fire safety is
always important.
LAQUER THINNERS are a generic group of solvents which
function similarly to acetone, however, there are different
formulations. Fumes are also easily detectable in most, but
they are not quite as volatile as acetone, yet still
considered highly flammable.
TOLUENE, a common constituent of lacquer thinners, is not
quite as flammable as acetone nor as volatile, but can reach
anesthetic affects at much lower levels. A 50/50 mix of
toluene and acetone is sometimes used as a solvent to
moderate the qualities of each.
Just about all solvents are dangerous products from one or
more respects, and costly. Skin contact should be avoided,
especially when working around epoxy products. Most of these
products tend to open the skin pores and remove protective
skin oils, driving both the solvents and the resin more
deeply into the skin and perhaps ultimately into the system
of the user. The results are a much greater risk of skin
reactions of greater severity.
For personal clean-up of uncured resin from skin, ordinary
water and soaps or detergents (including ammonia), or
denatured alcohol can be used. However, we prefer the use of
waterless hand cleaner products which are specifically
intended for use with resin products. These usually have
added protective oils that keep the resin from being absorbed
by the skin and don't tend to dry the skin. Of course,
personal clean-up is much easier if barrier cream has been
applied-and protective clothing and gloves worn.
Again it should be emphasized that neither POXY-SHIELD®
or POXY-GRIP® products should be thinned with solvents or
thinners. This will distort and adversely affect the
properties of the resin, perhaps to the point where they
simply will not work.
Editor's Note:
Glen-L now can supply you with "Water-Based Marine Paint For a
Professional Finish That Will Knock Your Socks
Off!"
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