WebLetter 48An Occasional Publication for the Home Boat BuilderGlen-L Marine Designs - 9152 Rosecrans Ave. - Bellflower, CA 90706 In this issue
GLEN-L Update
Tuffy: A first boating loveby Cliff SteeleThis article first appeared in the June 2003 issue of Heartland Boating and appears with the permission of the author. Forty years ago this spring we built Tuffy our first boat. But before I talk about Tuffy, I must go back 50 years. I was 12 back then and enjoyed a hobby that later would lead me and introduce me to a life-long relationship with boating. I would spend long hours in our basement building model boats on an old rickety table, gluing and cutting little pieces of balsa wood, then painting them. I would load up the basket on my green Schwinn bike and peddle to the nearest Chicago park pond and launch them. The little boats would have small electric motors and flashlight batteries crammed below deck to make them move across the pond. A TV series about this time named WATERFRONT was very poplar and starred Preston Foster. He was the Captain of a Harbor Tugboat named the Cheryl Ann. The plot was always lame, but I was drawn to the sturdy tug in all the harbor scenes. In real life the Cheryl Ann was actually a tug named Milton S. Patrick. Less than two years later the show was cancelled. Could it have been the curse of renaming a boat's original name? A model of Cheryl Ann was soon available in hobby shops and I bought the first, and perhaps last kit. It was all out of plastic, had real turned brass handrails, an electric motor and even included paints. I had found my new challenge, plastic model boating. On the Mark: Improvements - A Swim Platformby Mark BronkallaThis spring we did some major work on our Riviera. The boat is primarily used for water sports and is left in the water all summer long. Between the UV exposure and the constant climbing over the hull, the varnish finish had taken a beating. This led to completely refinishing the deck and sides of the boat. We also wanted to enhance its use for wake boarding, skiing and tubing. For this we added a wakeboard pylon and swim platform. As you will see in the coming photos and articles, these items can play well with a classically styled boat. We had been entering the boat with a ladder attached over the transom. The ladder was removable and would fit into two clips at the top of the transom. Putting the ladder in and removing it every time we picked up a skier was a hassle. The ladder was in the way for waterski and wakeboard storage and was causing its share of damage to the boat. While the ladder was a huge improvement over simply hoisting ourselves over the sides (not easy at all), we wanted a swim platform as we had seen on competition ski boats. This photo shows our daughter, Jessie coming up the ladder as it was mounted over the transom. A question about fiberglassPosted on the Boatbuilder Connection: The following is taken from our book "How to Fiberglass Boats" Chapter 3Fiberglass Materials The word "fiberglass" has virtually become a household word. Because this term is so common, and to keep things simple, it will be used in a generic way throughout most of this text. However, there are materials other than "fiberglass" that can be used for sheathing that will be discussed elsewhere in the text. For certain applications and uses, these other materials and their application processes may offer unique qualities not possible with fiberglass. The reader should review these alternatives, in addition to the text on true fiberglass materials and methods, so that the proper choices can be suited to his particular application. Therefore, keep in mind that the "fiberglass" sheathing process may not be the ONLY solution to a sheathing problem. WHAT IS FIBERGLASS?True fiberglass materials and the composite products made from them have suffered from a confusing abundance of names that, quite simply, refer to the same thing. Depending on the geographical area or who is talking, one might hear terms such as "glass-fibre", or "glass reinforced plastic", or "GRP", all of which are commonly used in England and Europe. In the US, one might hear the terms "fiberglass reinforced plastic", "FRP", "glass fiber", as well as the word "fiberglass", in common use. In all cases, these terms mean the same thing, which is the use of fiberglass materials usually in conjunction with some type of liquid plastic resin. Although the word fiberglass is often applied to polyester resin, it is the glass laminate material that makes it "fiberglass" and not the type of resin used to apply it. Yet few people know what fiberglass really is. Basically, it's a material made from glass filaments. With the advance of technology, many new types of glass filaments with high strength properties and other specialized characteristics are now available or in the process of development. However, due to economic considerations and the fact that most boats generally need only materials of medium strength with high rigidity, the type of fiberglass filament most often used in fiberglass materials for boat work is technically known as "E-glass", the "E" standing for "electrical grade". For the technical reader, the actual glass used is a lime-alumina borosilicate glass of low alkali content with a high chemical stability and moisture resistance. This glass composition offers ample properties of flexibility, strength, and abrasion resistance under most marine conditions. Stronger glass compositions are made (such as high-strength "S-glass" which has about 20% greater tensile strength than "E-glass") but are more expensive, and availability of products made from them more limited. Unless added strength properties are critical, materials made with "S-glass" are not necessary in the majority of sheathing applications. This is a good place to mention that glass is applied to plywood boats to reduce maintenance and protect the surface and not to add strength. In a plywood boat, the strength is in the "wonder material", plywood.
Feedback: AirboatThe maiden voyage went well with the airboat. After the parking lot Christening, the "Glo Fly Bug", the trailer, and boat parted for the first time. I was fortunate in having able-bodied seamen for the shakedown present as handling the airboat in itself took some nerve. After the run, all hands were far more relaxed and joyful. We picked the marina at Suisun, California as the prevailing wind, and there's almost all the time plenty of that, blows down the launching ramp making the landing very controllable. At one point after shifting weight forward in the form of passenger/line handler we estimated our water speed at 40 miles per hour at 2,900 RPM, with still a lot of engine left to go. Several items have been modified since the sea-trial and amongst them are, rudder linkages; bilge pump overboard discharge location; the addition of "SMART TAB" by Nauticus, Model ST980-40. A few calls to airboat manufacturers assured me that Glen-L had it right with the engine being true 90 degrees to the flat bottom and not canted downward toward the transom to force the bow down for planing. All did recommend trim tabs on the airboat. The first problem encountered was the electric or hydraulic trim tabs were too long to install on the airboat transom as they required more virtual height than the Glen-L is designed to carry. The SMART TAB trim tab is compression spring operated and the tabs automatically adjust, an ideal situation of a pilot such as myself, the more I can concentrate on operational safety the better, no distraction to determine how the boat is trimmed or if it needs corrective action from the pilot/helmsman. All in all, the whole project has come along with surprisingly few "Murphy's" so to speak. I did acquire some tools which will remain in my inventory for future projects, not all boatbuilding. The construction with aviation grade plywood's were my major construction concern. 3/8" plywood has 7 bonded/no flaw or plug birch ply's, the toughest plywood I have ever formed. The bow is right at the limit of the bow pieces. The forward portion has a lot of tension after gluing and screwing. I actually broke a white oak bow piece while pulling the plywood down. I would add the break was not at a long splice with two part epoxy but some four inches away. In my heyday of boatbuilding or rather shipbuilding, we did not have any marine glue as strong as the glues available now. One item that could ease the difficulty of lacing with copper wire on say the rudders is to use abundant hog rings lightly squeezed so as to not penetrate the door skin but hold the adjoining sides while the glue sets. Works like a charm. I opted to include a lazerette on the foredeck with a commercial plastic and latching lid. I keep the anchors, handling lines, medical kit, tools, flares etc., etc. as well as three cubic feet of canned blue Styrofoam on both sides of the center locker. Prior to launch, the Vallejo Coast Guard Station inspected the airboat for seaworthiness and boating regulations. The airboat being under 16 feet made meeting the minimum requirements easy. The engine is not enclosed and an extinguisher is not required though one is attached to the front seat. A horn is not required but installed, the lights include navigation green/red/white and a yellow strobe for daytime use. This invoked some praise for the issue of safety from the Coast Guard. In addition to a can and sponge there's a 700 GPH bilge pump which brings me to an earlier problem with the write up of the boat plans. No mention is made of the draft with the VW engine, a battery, gasoline and also a 230 pound pilot. Where I had calculated to water line at rest to be was only two inches above where it actually is at the transom. The bilge pump exhaust had backwash flowing into the seat area at the stern. When the bilge pump was run it drained the boat quickly. While underway the taking on water disappeared as the stern quickly rose clear of the at rest waterline. Anyway I plugged the hole and will wait until all the testing is complete to drill another inch hole through the hull, this time well above the waterline. Well folks its late and I must cease this letter and climb into my rack and get some slumber, morning watch comes all too quickly. Sincerely, Charles A. Bailhache a Happy and Satisfied customer 6-24-03 PS: Need some smooth water for a real speed run, got up about 40 MPH with the GPS as an indicator but Mare Island is too rough and wave action is in all directions at once. Next stop, Oakley and the delta with some fishing gear.
Darla's cornerby Darla SchoolerI am always on the lookout for bits of information that might inform or amuse the readers of the WebLetter. Starting with this issue, Darla's Corner will become a regular feature. If anyone has any contibutions, I will gladly accept them. Darla Schooler What is the origin of the term "poop deck"? Well, it's not what you think. Poop deck comes from the Latin word puppis, which means "stern". A poop deck is a raised deck at the rear of a ship.
Recent email:Subject: V-dory ... Thanks for your help. - Dave Holmes Subject: Swish builder Friends, Friends, Just wanted to tell you how excited I was when I accidentally stumbled across the "Swish" pictures on your site because I built one of those boats in 1958 for my 9th grade shop project from the plans that were in Popular Mechanics. That was such a swell looking design at the time that I just had to have one! This was a pretty steep undertaking for a kid of that age, but I did finally finish it in another year or so and have a couple very fuzzy old pictures to prove it. Seeing these pictures really swept me away! This was the first of many ambitious, but successful projects over the years. While challenging at the time, these endeavors build the character and confidence in us for successful futures! I would strongly recommend any project like this as a great suggestion for a Father & Son project. This is one of the few remaining opportunities we have as parents to pass on our work ethic and skills to a "hi-tech" generation. I did this with my son when he was 14 from which he gained the seldom found self-sustaining capabilities to pass on to his 2 children when they get out of diapers. Thanks, Subject: just amazed hi; Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Monday, July
7, 2003 name: gunther muhsemann Comments: I built 3 of your designs including TANGO. I'm now 82 years old and still enjoy sailing "T" occasionly. Subject: Thanks Was at a loss to cheaply true up some maple boards that were off prior to gluing them up and did a lookup on "truing edges". Your diagram of the table saw jig saved me some time and/or bucks, 'cause I was going to either get a plane out and do a crappy job or take 'em to somebody with a real shop and pay them to do it. Thanks, For Sale: Modified Raven
Includes 50 hp O/B with handler, fully equipped canvas. The boat has been surveyed. We have one photo that was sent in when the boat was completed. Photo. Posted by Brian on July 01, 19103 at 06:48:44: Recently the Glen-L-builders group based at Yahoo groups changed format from
a Glen-L-specific group to a general boatbuilding group. If anyone is working
on a Glen-L project and would like to be involved in discussion specifically
related to Glen-L, there is a new group forming. The home page is: Thanks, Subject: Re: Sea Kayak Hello Barry, Subject: Lumber supplier Sir, in response to your web site. My name is Red Esslinger DBA Mnt. Man Cutting of PO 19551 Thorne Bay Alaska 99919 (907)828-8880 FAX (907) 828-8895 I am a producer of the very finest grain, highest quality old growth rough sawn (ad) Alaska Yellow Cedar, western Red Cedar, Sitka Spruce and Western Hemlock. Shipped to Seattle weekly via Boyer Barge. Please let your readers know of this great product for those who choose the best. Red Esslinger Subject: Re. Hunky Dory with Cabin by Lee Walker 6-22-03: Well didn't make it by 4/7/03, but have finished painting, and am building a beam overhead, I will be rigging a sling for turn over. The plan is to lift the boat, with a come-along (10 ton). The come-along will be attached to a 4X12 beam, and will have a pulley attached to run the sling through. I have cut out the strong back of the framing form at the (hopefully) balance point and am going to attach 2 - 2x6's side to side to keep the pressure of the sling from deforming the sides. Then I will lift, remove the framing forms, rotate the boat to upright, and lower on to the trailer. One suggestion for those of you who are building in a "reduced width" space, build bow toward the door, the boat will not fit worth a hoot on the trailer backwards. I retire next week so hopefully will have time to put towards the boat. I am still having trouble coming up with a name... any reader suggestions? Mike is building the Sea Kayak. Subject: Sea Kayak Just to let you see what we have to kayak around. Cheers, Mike Cooke Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Monday, June
30, 2003 name: Richard P. Stickney Jr. Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Monday, June
23, 2003 name: Richard Jorgensen Sr Subject: Re. Topper Barry, Robert B and Robert C Rawlings Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Saturday,
June 7, 2003 name: Yehezkel Yeskin Build more boats GLEN-L boats, of course |