Boatbuilding with Plywood
Chapter 6 - Fastenings
Continued
SCREWS
Screws come in three main types: round head, oval
head, and flat head. The flat head wood screw is the most commonly used in
plywood boatbuilding. All head types are available as a slot head or with a
crosshead type such as the patented Phillips or Read-Prince varieties. These
latter types are usually easier for machine driving, however, with the hot
dipped galvanized variety, these do not work out so well since the cross head
tends to load up with the molten zinc thereby making them harder to drive than
the ordinary slot head.
Screw lengths of the standard flat head type range
from 1/4" to 4" long, however, screws less than 3/4" and over 3
1/2" are seldom used in plywood boatbuilding. A number is used to
designate the size (diameter) of the screw shank, ranging most commonly from a #2 to a #18. The bigger the number,
the larger the screw shank diameter. Relative sizes of the various screws are
indicated on the chart shown by Plate 6B.
Screws are sold either by the hundred (1C), or by the gross (144); so when
comparing prices make sure you are comparing like amounts.
When driving any screw, it is imperative that the
shank and pilot holes are of the proper diameter for the wood being used.
Over-drilling or under-drilling will provide poor holding power for the screw
or possibly cause the wood to split. Although tables are given recommending the
proper sizes, these may have to be varied to suit the work. Obviously, the
threads will not cut into oak as well as into a soft wood such as spruce. There
are many types of tools available that will drill, countersink, and/or
counterbore for screws in one operation, and are well worth the small amount
that they cost.
Plate 6C - The "right" way (at left)
to drive a screw in plywood, and the "wrong" way (at right). The
screw should compress all veneers in the plywood panel.
When driving screws through plywood, it is
essential that compression wood be left underneath the head (see Plate 6-C). By
this term, it is meant that the screw should not be countersunk so far that it
would eliminate the top layer of plywood. The top layer of the plywood should
be compressed under the screw head. This gives much better holding power.
Screws in plywood that is under tension, such as in the application of curved
planking panels, should never be counterbored. They should be driven just below
the surface of the wood. Putty is used to cover the head of the screw. If the
hull will be covered later with fiberglass or equal sheathing, such putty
should be an oil-free type compatible with resin for a proper bond.
Often when driving screws in hardwoods such as oak,
the screws have a tendency to bind and are very difficult to drive. When this
is the case, rubbing them on a bar of soap or paraffin can lubricate the
screws. This will facilitate driving considerably. Avoid driving screws along
the very edge of the cross grain on a plywood panel as it can cause the grain
to split at the edges. It is better to leave a panel oversize when possible,
drive the screws, and then trim to size, such as can be done on the side or
bottom planking of a boat at the transom. In extremely fast powerboats or
racing boats, it is considered excellent practice to dip each screw in a
hard-setting glue before driving it home. When fastening along a length of
wood, the screws should be well staggered not only for good holding power, but
to avoid splitting the wood. When driving a screw, especially by machine, keep
pressure on the screw until it is driven home. If the screw hits bottom but
continues to turn freely, it means that the screw has stripped out the hole and
has no holding power. When this occurs and the screw is necessary at this
point, remove the screw and replace with one of a larger shank size or longer
length, or both.
The chart in this chapter (see Plate 6-D) indicates
the recommended sizes of screws for various planking and decking thick nesses.
However, this may vary considerably depending on the particular boat and the
backing member sizes. Quite often screws may require closer spacing or the use
of longer screws, or may require larger spacing and smaller screws. This chart
should serve as a general guide, but minor variations will not be
detrimental.
Plywood Thickness |
Plywood at outer
extremites (e.g. at
chine logs, keel,
and sheer clamps |
Plywood at inner
areas (e.g. longi-
tudinal battens |
Plywood to transom
and stem |
1/4" |
3/4" #8 OR
1" #8, 3" apart |
3/4" #8 OR
1" #8, 6" apart |
1" #8 OR
1 1/4" #8, 2" apart |
3/8" |
1" #8 OR
1 1/4" #8, 3" apart |
1" #8 OR
1 1/4" #8, 6" apart |
1 1/4" #8, 2" apart |
1/2" |
1 1/2" #8, 3" apart |
1 1/2" #8, 6" apart |
1 1/2" #8 OR
2" #10, 2" apart |
5/8" |
1 1/2" #8, 3" apart |
1 1/2" #8, 6" apart |
2" #10, 2" apart |
3/4" |
2" #10, 3" apart |
2" #10, 6" apart |
2" #10 min or
larger 2" apart |
Plate 6D - Screw size and spacing
recommendation for fastening plywood planking and decking of various
thicknesses.
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