Posted by Mark Bronkalla on February 10, 2003 at 11:20:38:
In Reply to: Chine Log Blues! posted by Frank H. on February 10, 2003 at 00:24:53:
The hot water method will help as Haji pointed out but here are a few other pointers:
Verify that there is mnimal run-outo f the grain in the chine logs at the forward end. This menas tht the grain lines should run parallel to the enght of the pice. In many cases there will be more run-out at one end than the other. Put the end with the greater run out at the stern (straighter run).
Temporarily fasten the chine in place whil doig the initial fitting AT EACH FRAME. By trauing to bend it all at once you run the risk of just having too much force to control and snapping the piece.
You could also build the chine out of 2 layers 1/2" thick and laminate in place. This is my favorite. It is much easier than the scalding water (I am a klutz) and the thinner piecees are more limber and easy to work with. This also allows you to more easily balnce the load on the frame and avoid warping the hull shape.
Put 1 layer on each side then add the second layer. The downside is you will need lots of clamps. You can also temporarily screw the 2 layers together, but pre-drill and test screw on the dry assembly. If you drill on the pices with the epoxy applied you will end up with a mess of sawdust and epoxy and some shavings will get stuck in between, making it hard to clamp.
Another option is to apply the pieces over 2 days. Pull them in near to shap and partially fastne in day 1 leaving about a 6-12" gap at the stem. Pull it in the restof the way on day 2. The wood should have taken on some of the curvature and bend more easily. This also works well whn coupled with the hot wet towels, or wet towel and a steam iron. I use a steam iron (old clothes iron) for removing dents in wood and steaming smaller pieces prior to bending.