An Occasional Publication for the Home Boat BuilderGlen-L Marine Designs - 9152 Rosecrans Ave. - Bellflower, CA 90706 In this issue
GLEN-L Update
Featured design: MissileThe Missile was chosen for this month's feature because of an email from Shelby Scott, which came with photos of a Missile that his father intends to restore... (see Recent Email) The Missile was designed in 1958 and was one of our most popular designs throughout the 1960's. The Missile was Glen's second V-drive design (the Hot Rod was first). The V-Drive installation shifted the motor aft, allowing increased speeds. Through the 1960's, builders put larger and larger motors in the Missile. Glen was not happy with big block engines in a 16' boat and designed several more SK-types in larger sizes for big block engines. The Thunderbolt and Tornado were both raced at over 100 mph using big block engines. Rudy Mandella was one of the first builders to offer V-drive boats to the public. Rudy heard that Glen had plans available for a V-drive hull and assumed Glen had copied his hull and was upset. Glen heard about this and took the plans over to show him and Rudy agreed that the design was different from his. Glen and Rudy became friends. "Rudy was an eccentric guy... died of a heart attack while testing one of his boats." For more about the Missile:
Feedback: Missile restoredby Nate BrownI just finished restoring an old Missile. I was going to send you some shots of it after it got pin striped and lettered. Here are some shots of "Breezy" as it is now. Great boat! I need to do some adjustments to the rear plate because at about 70 it wants to chine to port. FYI, I am building a Squirt and plan to deck it like the Missile and paint it just like this one. It is about a foot longer than the plan and is powered by a 650 Jet Ski engine. It's almost skinned and I hope to finish it soon. I want to get a shot of both boats in the water at the same time. The engine is a 1962 Chevy 348 with a tri- power set up that I got off ebay; my brother put it all together for me. The original motor was a 409 but the previous owner sold the motor and then sold me the boat cheap. The boat needed a ton of work but it was worth it. First I rolled it over and dialed in the bottom then I stripped the deck and put on a new one and stained it with a water based stain. I then used West system with the UV hardener over the stain. The red, white, blue, and clear is Sikkins. Notice that I used a large round over bit and routed the sheer so it would look "Slipperier" I glassed the hull and faired it all in. I sanded forever and coated the inside with a polyurethane varnish. The v-drive is a Casale and I have no idea what gears are in it. I can be at the boat launch with new boats all around me and the boat that gets the attention is this one. I love classics and speed so this boat fits the bill just great. The last shot is me during a race last year... my summer job is racing Unlimited hydros. Note: The original builder of the boat was Ben Vanderkooi. ...NB
Chine junction: Different thickness of side and bottom plankingQuestion: I am building a Stiletto and would like to know about fairing, if any, of the spray rail. When the rail is installed, the bottom edge is not on the same plane as the hull planking, should it be? Or should it be left to cut spray? Answer: First, a spray rail might provide some advantages, but it is not normally used on a boat of this type... it doesn't look cool. If you use one, the hull would be fiberglassed, then the spray rail fastened to the side planking, resting against the edge of the bottom planking, any gaps filled with thickened Poxy-Shield. The purpose of a spray rail, in addition to hiding this joint, is to deflect spray; it is not faired. For some other options see Plate 19E from BOATBUILDING WITH PLYWOOD. What glue should I use?This is a question we get every day. Although resorcinol and urea-formaldahyde (plastic resin) are used, today almost everyone uses epoxy. The question above most often really means, which of your epoxies should I use? We offer two different boatbuilder epoxies:
Poxy-Grip (1:1) and Poxy-Shield (5:1). The option that Allyn uses in the shop is Poxy-Shield with #1 Silica Filler added. If you were to use both types, you would probably choose Poxy-Shield because of the "workability". It is more expensive than Poxy-Grip because of the filler and although less expensive fillers can be used, they are not as nice to work with. The explanation above is repeated often, but I usually end by saying that I would use Poxy-Shield with #1 Silica Filler. For more information about Poxy-Shield and Fillers see the Epoxy section on our web site.
Darla's cornerby Darla SchoolerI welcome your contributions "Here's a link to a site that discusses
urban legends. This answer deals with the "duck quack echo"
issue. Eric was one of many who responded to my last column: Duck quack echo from Randy Williams. The following sites also have information about the duck-quack issue... as if you needed more. Quote of the month: "...suffice to say that growing old ain't for sissies". E.L. Anderson From the Nov/Dec 2003 edition of Camping Life: 2004 State Trailer Laws What Propeller?A good place to find out what propeller to use for your boat: Michigan Wheel. When you get to the site, you will need to fill in a form in order to get a recommendation. Below is a copy of the answers I gave for the Gung Ho. I did not know hp and rpm for the 350n Chevy, so I did a search on the Internet and found the answer at this web site. Shop Talk: Turning the hullGeronimo - Turning the Hull I turned the hull last Saturday 12/06/04. I rounded up 6 guys to help, the whole thing took 2 hours. Most of the time was spent in logistics, removing an 8 ft section of the shadowbox fence, installing the tongue jack, adjusting the bunks, installing a keel roller on the back of the trailer, adjusting the winch stand, etc. I will change the bow roller to a 4 inch bow stop as the roller that was standard doesn't fit right. Fortunately, it had just snowed 8 inches. This provided ample cushion for the hull when it was righted. Unfortunately, the temperature was 27 F which made working without gloves chilly. The actual turning took about 45 seconds with 2 guys on the transom, 2 on P&S and I was at the bow. The 2 guys on the down side didn't have to work that hard, but it was nice to have more than we needed. The building form was easily removed with a few careful strokes of a claw hammer. The keel roller was an indispensable item; with it, the hull moved effortlessly on. It works only during launch and load and is clear of the skeg by the time the bunks take the load. So far, the decision to buy the Venture VB-2000 trailer was a good one, I'm sure more adjustments will be needed come springtime. Future.... building the motor well, fore deck and windshield. Malahini - Turning the Hull
Vee Gull built in aluminumHere's a picture of the Vee Gull I have just completed. It is all Aluminum with a 202 V6 working through a Volvo Penta leg. The hull is identical to the plans, but as you can see I've designed a cuddy cabin for it. I also moved the cabin forward 2ft to give more fishing room and more room to lay out our dive gear. I was worried that the motor might be too small, but this proved not to be the case as we can cruise at 35 knots @ 3600 revs with 4 adults with gear aboard. It is extremely economical to run and only draws 2 ft at rest. I Have booked up about 70hrs running time off the weather coast on New Zealand's North Island without any major problems. Ron Hounsell Feedback: SquirtYou probably get a lot of pictures of upside-down boats. Well, here is another one. We started this Squirt about a year ago. We made the building jig rigid, with lots of cross braces, so it can be moved, although I doubt if that's a good idea for a larger boat, unless the jig is welded steel. Notice the casters and leveling jacks. I had to plan for this to get the other boat out of the shop and back in. The jig will roll over an uneven driveway without flexing. Then it is placed exactly back in it's original spot and we count the turns on the jacks to insure original alignment. A level confirms that nothing changed. We only had to move it one time so far, but when we fiberglass the bottom it will be nice to do the sanding outdoors. The Squirt was stretched to 11 feet. At that time I had not yet read in your website that you don't recommend stretching the stem. So I did lengthen the stem (at it's aft end) along with increasing the frame spacing. I am still not sure how to get a 10% longer boat if you don't lengthen the stem along with the frame spacing. At that point the frames (all two of them) looked kind of far apart. Not being much of a boat guy, I didn't know if this mattered, but I felt better after adding extra laminations to the inside of all the keel, battens, chines and sheers. Then for good measure I added more corner blocks in various places like the stem-to-chine and sheer-to-transom joints. Perhaps I should back up a bit. When I first saw all the great pictures on your web site, my initial reaction was that we should sell our nice fiberglass boat and build a Mist Miss with about 400 horsepower. Fortunately, my wife Linda has saved me from this sort of thing on numerous other occasions. This time she suggested that we keep the fiberglass boat and build a Squirt. If you want to comment in the newsletter on these topics, feel free. And if you don't like what we have done, by all means tell the folks. We will let you know when the Squirt looks more like a boat, but it has taken a year to get this far. Bill and Linda Whitney Recent email:Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Friday,
January 2, 2004 name: Dan Reardon Comments: Your web-site is awesome...thank you so much. I will finally build a boat because of you. If all goes well with that one...I will build many Subject: Thank you I just had to say "thank you". I have been looking on the web for a weight conversion chart to give to my nursing students. I finally found one here and I am very happy. I apologize for not having an interest in your products, but I do appreciate your service to our school! Happy New Year and Have a good day! Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Thursday,
January 1, 2004 at 09:56:38 name: capt fergus dearden Comments: Glen L is one of my favorite web sites Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Wednesday,
December 31, 2003 at 15:04:52 name: Phillip Potter Comments: Best online boat plans catalog on the web... bar none! Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Saturday,
December 27, 2003 at 02:10:20 name: brad Comments: I like your site and product. One thing that does bother me is that you continually have to move the page back and forth to read it. Why don't you put it on the site so we can read it by just scrolling down instead of left/right/left/right then down left/right/left/right. etc. ANSWER: There are two ways to write the html to display a web page: exact
size or percentage. Note: The problem with using percentages (initially all of our pages used these) is that the placement of graphics and photos will vary with each computer. This sometimes makes the pages difficult to understand. Thanks for your feedback. Subject: eBay Glen L project Here is a hull that I am sure will be trashed after the hardware goes. Hate to see old boats die. If you have any loyal's on the East Coast you might drop them the link. Happy New Year!. Nate http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=26455& item=2450716096 Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Wednesday,
December 24, 2003 at 08:52:38 name: Terry Cooper Comments: Great site, first I have found with info on how to make a windshield. I am fixing up a 1960 Crosby left hand steer runabout and need to replace the windshield. Thanks for the helpful information. Found you via Google Subject: Sea kayak II Have most of kayak assembled at this time. Need to epoxy deck on yet, and
then paint. Note: The luan most likely had a very thick inner ply and paper thin outer plies. These can be found at most building supply stores, but are not structural panels, and not suited for boat construction. The test model was built with 1/4" Douglas-fir ABX (exterior) and we had no problem. But this plywood is not usually available at building supply stores. They usually carry lesser grades (AC or worse). From: Scott, Shelby Hi, My name is Shelby Scott. I have attached pictures of our boat that we inherited from my grandfather. His name was Melvin "Scottie" Scott and he and Walt Foley put it together in Eureka. He bought a 1959 Corvette engine in the crate and put it in. It was originally candy apple red and it had a 4 barrel carb on it. It did not go fast enough for Grandpa so he bored the engine out to a 301 and put a small cam in it and put Tri-Power on it and at that time he painted the boat again to the blue it is now. He built the trailer from scratch. My dad is now looking to restore the boat. I am searching for Christmas presents and I was wondering if there are any books you would recommend to help him with this restoration. My parents recently moved back to Eastern Oregon where he will have time to work on the boat more. Thank you for your help, I look forward to hearing back from you!! Happy Holidays, Shelby Scott Bend, OR 97701 Note: Mr. Williams is the purchaser of the Amp Eater test model. Date: Sun, 14 Dec 2003 Well, we finally got Amp Eater out in the water today, and I have to say the day was a great success. We took the GPS along and she did an honest 5MPH with two adults and a very happy 8-year-old. Felt like we were flying, considering the lack of noise and fuss. We slowed down to stealth speed and were able to cruise right by a great blue heron without even ruffling his feathers. Congratulations to Glen for a wonderful design, and please tell Allyn thanks again for building a fine boat. The more I get to know her, the more evidence I see of his careful craftsmanship. My wife says this is the perfect boat, and for us, and our style of boating, which is simply messing about in a pretty craft at civilized speeds, I have to agree. Unfortunately, in all the excitement of "launch day", we forgot the camera. I do have this one of Allyn getting the boat ready to leave for her new home... Happy Holidays to you all, On Wed, 10 Dec 2003, Dominique SAVARIAU wrote:
For certain applications (2"x4", 2"x6"), full widths are
not required. The reason has to do with the peculiar way that American lumber
is measured. Softwoods (such as Douglas-fir) are measured before milling, so
that a 2"x4" is actually 1 1/2" x 3 1/2". When designing
the boat, the designer takes this into account. These pieces are almost always
used for the motor stringers or set-up members. There would be nothing wrong
with using full width material, but in this case it is not necessary. Your
understanding of the instructions is very good indeed. We have much more
confusion from many people in this country who speak English as their first
language. In the case of all other members, widths ARE actual, as you describe
above. Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Sunday,
January 4, 2004 name: (Clarence) Gene Coffee Comments: HI Glen-L Folks, Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Monday,
December 8, 2003 name: Katie Allen Comments: Eons ago, in the late 50's, I built one of your raised sheer 17 foot cruisers. I was well pleased with the boat and that's why I'm back. Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Monday,
December 8, 2003 at 14:36:00 name: Leif Simonsen Comments: I plan to construct a houseboat and I'd like to start with your 'How-To' boating books. Years ago I built your Topper boat, which I've had a lot of fun with. Build more boatsGLEN-L boats, of course |