WebLetter 38An Occasional Publication for the Home Boat BuilderGlen-L Marine Designs - 9152 Rosecrans Ave. - Bellflower, CA 90706 In this issue
GLEN-L Update
Barry Witt
On the Mark: Bottom Repairby Mark BronkallaPreludeIt had to happen sometime. While scrubbing the bottom of the boat, I noticed a deep scratch along the forward part of the keel, under the front cockpit.. We keep the boat in the water all summer and I was scrubbing the bottom while snorkeling under the boat. It was not there the day before, but we had been in some shallow areas attempting to catch some more fish. We had no luck on Sunday, too hot and few bites, but the Friday before was a lot of fun and provided a nice dinner. The scratch went through 2 layers of fiberglass and about 1/4" into the plywood. The boat would have to come out of the water right away for repairs. I did not want the plywood to get saturated and risk rot. I had also worried about peeling fiberglass off the bottom when running around at high speeds. Unfortunately, this was Sunday June 30th. I needed to have the boat back in the water by July 3rd for the long 4th of July holiday weekend. The local lakes are very busy on the weekends and holidays. In order to launch, you need to be in by 10 or 10:30 AM and pull after 7 PM to avoid a long wait (1-3 hrs) in line. We decided to wait until later in the day to pull and at about 8 PM we were at the dock and ready to pull out. The kids were with me to help, my oldest daughter and her boyfriend were there to help with the truck as we pulled the boat out. Some day I will get around to modifying the trailer to make it easier to get the boat properly centered. For now, I have to hold it centered over the bunks while a helper pulls the trailer forward , otherwise the boat always sits with the water pickup supporting the boat on top of one of the bunks. With a classic styled runabout like the Riviera, there is almost always a crowd at the launch and a lot of questions. Usually it starts with "How long did it take to restore?". After a couple of minutes the kids are rolling their eyes (Oh no, not again...), but I have lots of fun. Most people can hardly believe that people actually build boats like this any more. Even more they are amazed when we talk about the family involvement in building. The kids are proud of the work they did, but still add that I did not pay them enough to pull out the staples. So, with ego restored, we were ready to tackle the repair. Inboard Hardware: RuddersThe following is not an attempt to explain all the different types of rudders that are available, but rather, to provide enough information to make an informed selection from those we offer in our Inboard Hardware section. The following is taken from our book Inboard Motor Installations, part of Chapter 16 - Rudders & Steering. When building a boat, the size, shape, type, and location of the rudder, is usually specified by the designer of the boat. Not all inboard boats however, use rudders, such as stern-drive and jet-drive boats. Depending on the design, the rudder required may be a ready-made item, or details may be provided so that the builder can make his own rudder. On an existing boat that will be re-powered, the present rudder will probably be adequate for the job if it is currently satisfactory and the proposed installation is similar to the existing one. However, if the powering change will be from a single engine to a twin engine, or vice versa, then changes to the rudder and steering system will probably be necessary. If changes in rudders are necessary, competent professional advice regarding the size and type of the rudder should be sought, preferably from a qualified naval architect familiar with the type of boat, or from the manufacturer of the boat. Due to the many possible boat types and rudder configurations there is no set formula for determining rudder size without knowledge of the design. There are basically two types of rudder systems; those mounted under the boat called "inboard" rudders, and those mounted outside and behind the boat called "outboard" rudders (see Plate 56 and Plate 57). Many shapes and types are available in either configuration, as illustrated, and will vary considerably depending on the speed and type of boat. Generally, the faster the boat's speed, the smaller the rudder can be. Sailboats and low speed powerboats will have considerably different and larger rudders than high speed planing powerboats. However, the rudder principle is the same in all cases. The rudder is a blade in the water connected to a stock or shaft to which force is exerted to turn it one way or the other. This in turn deflects the water moving over the rudder and moves the stern of the boat to make it turn. Note that it is the back of the boat that does the turning, since it pivots about the bow in order to change direction, which is just the opposite of an automobile. Web sites worth looking at...Dominik's web site shows applying wood veneer over plywood for a "planked" appearance.
Zip
Cabin skiffEdward Andrews has done a great job and made a great web site for those interested in the Cabin Skiff. http://www.seaputter.com/
A problem... an answerSubject: how to respond?? In the current newsletter (WebLetter 37), someone asks for help re being "unable to turn right" because the tiller cable hits the seat. How can I respond? The problem can be solved by moving the motor end of the loose link (between the motor and the tiller cable end) back toward the motor. There are several holes in the motor tongue. If the hole used is farther out, more travel is required for the tiller cable to effect the same motor angle. Note that as you move the link toward the motor, more effort will be required to get the same turn angle. (Lever arm is shorter.) E-mail if I've confused you. Feedback: Bo-JestSubject: Bo-Jest
project Glen-L Marine Designs I have just completed "RASCAL" which is based on the BO-JEST
design with my take on how the boat would best suit our needs. The hull to the
deck level was built exactly to the plans with almost everything above the deck
built with my ideas. Among the major changes are the following: We also installed a teak deck overlay, added stainless railings around the boat, eliminated the bridge deck aft to give some additional space in the cockpit and added seats on both sides of the cockpit. We have 2- 18gal. fuel tanks (one under seats-starboard & port) 1- 20 gal. water tank under the front berth, a marine head in an enclosed space in the aft pilothouse, and a small galley with sink and 1 burner stove on the opposite side. We are very pleased with how things have come out and are amazed at the space in the boat. Thanks for the plans and hope you like our take on BO-JEST. Bob Trygg Recent email:Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Tuesday, July
30, 2002 at 19:01:10 name: Allan Burke Comments: Subject: Re: Glass or varnish? Kevin Gough wrote: I am currently building the Tango and have just completed the decks. At this point I had planned to fiberglass the decks however a friend at the marina has informed me that this is not aways a good idea as glassing the deck can stop the air circulating within the boat and be cause for eventual decay of the timber. He has suggested that I varnish the decks instead as the timber would breath better. Can you tell me if this is so as I would have rathered fiberglass to varnish. Thanks for any advise you can give. Kevin Gough. Answer: Subject: Re: History of helm position "G. C." wrote: The subject came up in our marina group as what was the reason for the positioning of the wheel and controls on the starboard side of most boats. Have searched the internet but can not find a straight answer on the history. Some jet boats have controls on the port side. Thank you Gary C. Answer: The right side of the boat is the helmsman's area of responsibility, although this is less of an issue on a small boat that does not have restricted visability. There is a practical reason you might want to vary the rule. On a small outboard boat, the boat will tend to rise on the side toward which the motor rotates, especially if there is a high-pitched prop. Most outboards rotate toward the right, but some do rotate to the left. The driver's weight can help make the boat ride level. However, the main reason is the helmsman's area of responsibility. I don't know why jet boats would be an exception, probably some
manufacturer's contraryness. Subject: Re: use of Black Locust lumber for my GlenL-19 Darrell Stotts wrote: Good morning folks; I am having great difficultly finding White Oak here in Columbia, SC. I have found a source of Black Locust however. I am told by the supplier that it is used for boat building. The supplier tells me that it is very hard wood (like white oak) and more rot resistant and holds glue well. I don't want to take his word for it so I am asking the expert, you'al. Is Black Locust a good alternative wood to use for the keel, bottom battens, and chine in my GlenL-19? The price is not to bad, I was told that it runs $2.50 a board foot. What do ya think? Darrell Stotts Answer: Subject: T-N-T Complete Well, she's done... After two years of construction my T-N-T, which is
my first home built boat, is complete. Attached are 4 pictures of our final
product which has amazing stability, and performs great! Thanks alot, Chris Power Subject: Sea Kayak complete After over a year of on and off construction, I recently completed work on
my Sea Kayak. I've named her the "Sturgeon" in honor of the
sacred postion of that fish in Ojibway culture, plus like me it's native to
Wisconsin. The boat was built pretty much to plan, but I did use KayakSport
hatches in place of the recommended Becksons. I also decided to use sheer
clamps at the deck to hull junction. This allowed the deck to be cut slightly
oversize and trimmed after installation. I believe this was easier than trying
to stitch that seam together and have a fair sheer. Overall the construction
was very trouble free, even for a first time builder like myself. I found your
plans very clear and easy to use, and the transfer paper was extremely handy!
I've taken her on a few short paddles and she seems to handle quite
sweetly. I really look forward to many enjoyable hours and days exploring with
her. I'm afraid the boat-building bug has bitten me pretty hard, as I'm
already plotting out my next one, probably a tandem kayak. Subject: Finally Done! I'll bet Barry will be glad to hear my TNT is finally done. No more E-mail questions! Seriously, I want thank Barry and everyone else at Glen-L for being so helpful over the past months. Now that it's on the water, all of the efforts have proven worthwhile. The TNT handles great and it accelerates like a rocket. I am running a stock 30 HP Johnson. As I get used to it, I may play with the engine height, tilt and prop selection -- just for grins. You probably hear about fathers and sons building their first boat together all the time, however, the difference here is that I'm in my forties, and my father is in his seventies! I made a mistake in the stem height, which caused the nose to sweep upward (I actually like the way it looks), but as Barry Witt pointed out, this didn't affect the performance at all. Future plans are to paint the hull and put more varnish on the deck, but for the rest of the summer, I'm going to enjoy it. Great kit, great support... thanks, again. Looking forward to my next one. Pat Keegan, Subject: Outrigger I don't have a copy of the email, but it asked for information about putting outriggers on canoes... Photos at http://elib.cs.berkeley.edu/ Subject: Cabin Skiff Dear Glen - L, 10 years ago I built this Cabin Skiff from your plans. It plied the waters of Kodiak, Alaska for 1 year and the waters of SE Alaska for the last 9 years. It's a fish killing machine and is still as solid as a rock. 2 - 3 years ago, I visited Glen-L in California and you were kind enough to give me a tour. I promised to send you some pictures. She's 10 years old and needs new cosmetics (paint, varnish, etc.) but here are the pictures. Enjoy, Photos in Customer Photos/Photo Board 1 Build more boats GLEN-L boats, of course |