WebLetter 41
An Occasional Publication for the Home Boat Builder
Glen-L Marine Designs - 9152 Rosecrans Ave. - Bellflower, CA
90706
In this issue
GLEN-L Update
- Web site:
- Computers... just had my hard drive re-formatted, been down for two weeks.
Installed Windows XP, now my scanner doesn't work. Have to go home to
transfer anything to the web site...
- Dragonfly, a flats boat. The working name for the design was
"Flattie", but Gayle and Darla revolted and it was changed to
Dragonfly. Allyn and I have yet to proof the instructions and plans, our goal
is to have the plans ready by the end of the first week in December...
we'll see. See the New pages for additional information on what we feel is
going to be a very popular stitch and glue design.
- Lots of new photos since the last WebLetter, including first of the
MiniMaxed (Link in Email section).
- Thanks for all the input... wouldn't have been much of a WebLetter this
month without it.
- Have you visited the Boatbuilder connection lately? The Connection is a
great community that can offer a lot of help and encouragement.
- Christmas... not usually our busiest time, but always a last minute rush.
You might consider suggesting a Glen-L Gift Certificate when asked what you
want.
- Project Registry - have been checking some of the email addresses. Several
are no longer valid. I am undecided whether to delete the complete entry...
some of the comments are helpful, plus knowing that others are building the
same boat encourages many builders. Keep your email addresses up-to-date.
Doesn't help other builders much if they can't contact the builders in
the Registry. Let me know if you find any bad addresses.
- I plan to have one more WebLetter before the end of the year... Will be
abbreviated, how much we will have will depend on your input. Let others hear
your boatbuilding story. There are good examples in this WebLetter.
- If you have not looked at previous
WebLetters, I suggest you check them out. There have been many memorable
letters and downright good stories sent in by Glen-L builders.
Barry Witt
Editor
On the Mark: Introduction to Fairing
by Mark Bronkalla
In discussing the fairing process, I am referring
to the framework of the Riviera (a 20 foot runabout), but the same process
applies to any cold molded hull. In this article we will cover the fairing of
the frame prior to adding the planking.
What is Fair?
A fair hull is one that has lines/curves that flow
smoothly in all directions with no humps, bumps, dips or sags. Having a surface
that is fair is NOT the same as one that is smooth. Smoothness is a measure of
surface roughness on a tiny, almost microscopic level. Fairness is a measure of
overall surface smoothness of the overall surface. A comparison is a newly
surfaced highway that has a smooth surface, but with ripples that leave your
car hobby horsing down the road. This is a surface that is smooth, but not
fair.
Fairing the frame
Starting at a complete frame you may ask: "How
can I tell what is fair? It is mostly air!"
Fairing is the process of changing your boat frame
from being a series of somewhat matched angular blocks of wood and making it
one sinuous, flowing framework.
For the engineers in the crowd, we start with a
piece-wise linear approximation of the hull shape and replace it with a series
of splined curves via an iterative process.
Piece-wise linear applies since initially, the hull frame can be visualized
as a series of (relatively) flat rectangles and triangles. The frames and
battens define the edges of these rectangles and triangles.
The reason they are "splined" curves is that we cannot create a
curve with one continuous pass of a long and perfectly shaped tool. We will
work on individual sections of the framework at a time and blend each section
into the other.
The reason it is an iterative process is that it is not possible to go from
a rough frame to a fair frame in one pass or even on one section at a time. In
the process of fairing, the whole frame is brought closer to a fair surface.
The process is then repeated, each repetition of the process brings the entire
surface closer and closer to fair.
For the non-engineers, an iterative process is one where you make many
passes at approximating the solution to a problem. Each pass gets you one step
closer.
Continue
Gift Certificates
We would like to remind our builders that we have
Gift Certificates available. These are great for last minute shopping. We can
email a copy that can be given to your favorite boatbuilder. Gift Certificates
take the guesswork out of shopping. You know your builder is going to need
something for the project and a Gift Certificate allows your builder to order
exactly what he needs. We normally process orders in the morning, so orders
received late in the day may not be filled until the following day.
See the Gift
Certificate page for additional details.
Designer's Notebook: Skeg Vs. fin
We have had several builders inquire about putting
fins on their boat; specifically on the Squirt. The following notes should
allow you to make a more informed decision as to whether to use a fin or
skeg.
Why use either? You don't have to, many
builders don't. At low speed, you may not see a need. But at higher speeds,
when you are demanding more from the hull, the hull can noticeably slide in
turns. So which is best?
Fins are a pain in the neck. They make the boat
more difficult to put on a trailer and are vulnerable in shallow water. But a
fin gives the hull a pivot-point and prevents the hull from sliding in a turn.
The hull will be more maneuverable. A fin allows you to make sharper turns and
would normally be used on racing hulls. Fins are installed on the centerline of
the hull, at approximately the center of the waterline length. When
multiple fins are used (on larger hulls), they are installed in-line, on the
centerline. They are installed fairly close together; again, centered on the
waterline length. Most often they are through-bolted, with nuts and washers on
top of the keel. They are sometimes screwed in place on small boats with long
screws. Fins are added after the hull is fiberglassed and painted, so can
always be added at a later date, if needed.
A skeg, or outer keel, is a longitudinal wooden
member installed on the centerline after fiberglassing, but usually before
painting. A skeg works somewhat differently than a fin. It prevents skidding,
but also gives the hull more directional stability; the boat will tend to go in
a straight line. Turns will be wider and the hull will not be as responsive to
quick maneuvers. The skeg is much lower profile so trailering is easier and
beaching is possible. It is important that the skeg end well before the transom
to prevent cavitation. As a general rule, it ends at least 18" in front of
the transom. The forward end usually stops short of the point where the stem
starts to curve upward. On a boat like the Squirt, the skeg would be made from
1" (3/4") x 2" material, tapering from 1/2" at the forward
end to the full 2 inches at the aft end. The aft trailing edge is given an
airfoil shape, again to reduce the possibility of cavitation. It is extremely
difficult to fiberglass over a skeg, so it is usually only painted or
varnished. Two or three coats of a high-solid epoxy, like our Poxy-Shield, will
make it more resistant to abrasion, but will not offer the same protection as
the cloth on the hull bottom.
Skegs are installed in one of two ways: permanent
or semi-permanent. The first is installed with an adhesive such as our
Poxy-Shield, with a filler such as #1 Silica added to insure that there is
positive contact at all points. It is advisable to form the epoxy that squeezes
out around the edges into a small fillet. The second option uses a mastic or
marine caulking/adhesive to install the skeg. This makes it easier to replace
the skeg if it is damaged, and may be preferable if you plan frequent beaching.
With either method, the skeg is drilled for screws, counterbored and screwed in
place. The holes can be filled with wood plugs made with a plug cutter or
filled with putty. If you plan making the skeg replaceable, you may not want to
counterbore so that the screws can be removed.
Deep vee hulls tend to skid less and frequently do
not require a fin or skeg. The deep vee provides somewhat the same
characteristics as a skeg.
Continue
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Boat Doctor?
5/17/02
Dear President, Glen-L Marine,
As is so with those in your position, you may spend
a significant portion of time just dealing with problems or unhappy customers.
I would like to tell you my story, a good story, a happy story.
I was raised in Fort Worth, Texas. My dad had been
raised on a farm in west Texas and fortunately had many hard-work skills which
he passed on to me and my other brother. I helped my older brother build a
14' boat from a kit (I don't know the company, but I think it was in
Minnesota) when I was in junior high school. When I got to high school age, I
decided to build a boat myself.
The reasons, I don't remember too well, but we
always needed more room in the small boat. Also, there was a small bit of fear
in me - a challenge-type of anxiety, not knowing for absolutely sure that I
could "do it"... build a boat on my own. My older brother was away at
college and my father was "unavailable".
I remembered seeing your ad in the back of a
Popular Mechanics magazine - I'm pretty sure about this. I sent for a book
of plans and decided to build the Hell Cat (16'). We had a tiny garage with
a dirt floor, one car, a skill saw, a Black and Decker drill motor, and a hand
sander. No real power tools.
I started building the boat in October and finished
it almost exactly six months later - after school and at night. I was a bit of
a loner - I felt the things my classmates did on their time off were silly and
unproductive.
Nevertheless, when I launched my boat, I believe I
was the proudest lad in Texas! The boat was super and we used it day in and day
out throughout Texas and beyond for close to twenty years.
When I graduated from college as a pre-medical
school student in 1965, I was really sweating getting accepted into medical
school. There was an application to acceptance ratio of about six to one. My
college grades were good, but there were many good students at the University
of Texas. Also the application process involved several sweaty-palm face to
face interviews with medical school professors. One portion of my medical
school test, I had done very poorly on. I didn't know at the time that I
had a form of dyslexia (spelling and certain word transposition). The professor
with a big frown asked me why I had done so poorly on that test. I sweatingly
responded that "I must have spent too much time working on my
boat!"
He immediately perked up and looked me in the
eye,...
"What is this about a boat?"
"Well, I was building a boat after school and at night", I responded
sheepishly.
"You built a boat?... What kind of boat?"
"It was a 17' ski boat, a catamaran, I built it in my garage at
home."
"You did this by yourself, and the boat worked?" He seemed very
curious.
"Well, yes. We've been using it for over three years!"
"That's terrific! I've never heard of a high school student
building a whole boat by themselves. Was this a kit or was it from plans?"
he asked.
"I just bought the plans, measured all the pieces to figure out how much
wood I needed, bought the wood... about three hundred and fifty dollars worth
as I remember... and some fiberglass... and I built it. It took me about six
months."
I got my acceptance letter from the University of
Texas medical branch in Galveston several weeks later. I have No doubt that the
interview made the difference for me. The many people that I have told about
the boat project seem to me to always react with, well, "wonderment!"
It's a good feeling, a very good feeling, the same feeling of
accomplishment I had when I launched the boat for the very first time. That
boat made a big difference in my life. Not only did it help me get into medical
school, but it helped me realize that there was no project that I should be
afraid to tackle. It's one of a handful of things I've done over the
years I am truly proud of, and one that gave me a very wholesome feeling of
accomplishment, completion and, well, success.
I can't believe that those plans still sell for
just $69. I've been tempted to buy a set, just to show my two grown, lovely
daughters what I had used to build it. I hope the other men (and women) who use
your plans get the same satisfaction that I have had.
I'm sure you get letters from all over the
world, and you should. The boat performed flawlessly and gave us endless hours
of fun. I hope your other customers are as satisfied as I have been.
Sincerely
Kenneth R. Cropper M.D.
Feedback: Two Tunnel Mites
Thanks for the great plans. We decided to build two
Tunnel Mites thinking it would be only 1/2 the work to finish the second one.
It actually didn't save a lot of time but in the end we have a boat for
each of us. It took three months to complete both of the boats working almost
every weekend and many long nights after work.
The hull is made of Douglas-fir and the decking is
Okoume mahogany. The only major modification made to the plans was raising the
dashboard 3" which also adjusted the profile of the coaming. We used
push-pull steering assemblies in place of the cable system. A 10" go-kart
steering wheel, a tractor seat from Fleet Farm, and two used control boxes
later we were on the water.
As for performance, one has '95 15hp Mercury,
and the other has a '63 20hp Mercury. We have only had them out once and
the temperature was hovering around 32 o, but we managed to stay
dry. The 20hp outruns the 15hp by a little, and with a little tweaking over the
winter that should increase. Both handle the chop great and ran around
30mph.
Now we wait till next spring.......
thanks again
jason and joe
Minneapolis,MN
Photos in Customer Photos
Determining hull capacity
QUESTION: Sea Knight
I was looking over the USCG Safety Standards for Backyard Boatbuilders to get
the information on max. load/person/gear. On page 6 it begins with filling the
boat with water and counting the buckets full, then figuring out the weight of
water it took to fill it. After searching for the part saying it was a joke, I
realized they were serious.
Have those calculations been done for the Sea Knight?
ANSWER: We concur, the USCG method of filling the
boat with water is not a practical method. They do have a method to calculate
the interior volume, but it is rather complex. A short method follows that is
reasonably accurate for the purpose and on the conservative side. It assumes
that the boat was built per the plans.
Plansheet 2 shows the sections of the hull in HALF SECTION.
- Strike a line parallel to the reference line at #0 (transom) sheer level.
The square footage of the area below this line and inside the hull outline must
be calculated at #0, #2, and #5. The drawings are to 1 inch = 1 foot
scale.
- The area can be figured by dividing these areas into geometric shapes
(rectangles and triangles). The area must be in SQUARE FEET.
- The simplest way to do this is to use transparent graph paper with a
1/4" square grid. Each square in scale is 3" or 16 squares per square
foot.
- Lay the graph paper over the section drawing and count the squares in each
of the three sections.
- Figure the area of each of the three stations.
- Add them together and multiply by 2 (2 halves).
- Multiply by 5' - The result is in cu. ft total volume.
- Mutliply the cu. ft. by 64 (weight of water)
- The final answer is the weight required to sink the boat to the sheer
level.
We've taken some liberties on the conservative side as to where the
sections are taken, but it's probably as accurate as filling the boat with
water.
When the US Boating and Safety Act was first
passed. We assumed we would be required to calculate these figures for each
design. We contacted the USCG to ask how we should go about this and they asked
if we built the boats... no, then you cannot make the calculations. Only the
builder can certify the figures as the builder may not follow the plans.
Building the Power Skiff 14
(Stink Pot)
by Billy Lewis
I began building the Glen-L Power Skiff around
January 2000 and with the exception of paint, the boat was complete in about
two months.
Hats off to the folks at Glen-L who designed this
kit. The stitch-n-glue method makes building a boat very fast and simple, if
not for the time spent idle waiting for glue to dry, this boat could be built
in less than a week.
My first effort at painting failed miserably due to
not reading the directions carefully. The second coat attacked the first and I
had to strip the entire mess and start over. This actually turned out in my
favor because I gave the boat a test run before the second attempt at painting
and discovered some problems that had to be corrected prior to painting. I had
rounded the chines slightly, which caused water to wrap around the chines and
up the sides of the boat instead of spraying out away from the boat. The second
problem was the boat porpoised when on plane.
After a little eyeballing, it became obvious that
the bottom was not flat from the stern forward. It had a slight cup beginning a
couple of feet ahead of midship running aft to a point a couple of feet ahead
of the transom. I had originally intended to build this boat as a center
console but as the basic boat developed, I decided to follow the plans. After
seeing the cupped bottom, I changed my mind yet again and decided to move the
center seat aft and build a center console centered on the original position of
the seat. The new position of the seat would be centered over the cup in the
bottom and I thought a seat post cut to the necessary length might help
straighten the bottom. After a few extra layers of fiberglass to build up the
chines and a few more itchy days of grinding them to a nice sharp edge, work
began on the console and new seat position. All said and done, the console came
out great and the new seat position along with the slightly longer post greatly
improved the performance of the boat. I believe the new position of the driver
helped as much as a straight bottom but the two combined made this boat a
pleasure to operate. The sharp chines are much better but my boat could still
use spray rails. I think this boat looks very handsome as a center console. It
does take some imagination to rig a tiny console, but where there's a will,
there's a way. Of course no one knows this better than boat builders.
The extra work has added about two years to this
project but only because I ran out of free time after finishing the original
kit. If I had to do it all over again, I would, I would, I would! I would make
sure the bottom was flat EVERY time I walked by the thing! I would also not be
scared to venture off the beaten path if the original was not exactly what I
wanted to end up with. After all, isn't that why we build our own
boats?
As for the name, my father is the son of a son of a
sailor (from Jimmy Buffet's' song) and any boat that burns our natural
resources, especially if it goes faster than the length of the hull
(displacement of course) will allow, disgusts him. Every time we go fishing or
sailing and big fast boats pass with that awesome cloud of burnt gas and oil
following them, he always snorts.. "STINK POT".
This is obviously a condensed account of this
project but if you have any questions about my experiences along the way, feel
free to contact me at: milehigh@surfsouth.com.
Happy building,
Billy Lewis
Photos and Notes
Feedback: Squirt
by Art Spinella
This is the sweetest little boat I've ever had,
and not just because I built it myself. With the 15 hp Johnson (vintage: 1995),
it came up on plane virtually immediately with two adults on board. We put it
in 10 Mile Lake here in Southwestern Oregon on Saturday November 2.
It took half an hour to pull away from the dock
because of all the questions from other boaters. Everywhere we went on and off
the lake, from the gas station to McDonalds, resulted in extremely positive
comments.
But nothing can compare to driving the Squirt.
It's quick, dry and comfortable. The short windshield was more than enough
to direct the wind up and over the driver and passenger. And after hours of
being on the lake, there wasn't a drop of water inside the hull. The hull
design must be commended. It tossed water away from the boat making for a
spray-free ride.
Top speed was about 26 mph thanks to a nifty
performance prop on the Johnson. Cruising at 20 was not a strain for the motor,
hull or driver. It handled the wake of other boats well and while a fin would
likely improve the crispness of turns, it steered where aimed and responded
just fine without it.
While strangers who saw it were enthusiastic and
complimentary, I was most surprised by the reaction of teenagers. At least a
dozen teens at different locations all gushed over the Squirt. One, at the dock
where we launched, yelled from the parallel ramp, "That's the coolest
boat I have EVER seen!" Questions ranged from "How'd you get the
plywood to bend like that" to "How many coats of varnish did you
use?" And naturally, "Where did you get the plans?"
Thanks, everyone, for a great time building the
Squirt and an even better time showing it off.
Art has been very thorough in documenting the construction of
his Squirt. See the Project Registry
and Customer Photos.
Feedback: More Squirt
by Mike LeCompte
My Squirt is finally finished. It's been two
years and was a very enjoyable project.
I built the frames of mahogany and planked with
marine grade 6mm mahogany plywood. I glassed the bottom with deck cloth and
epoxy. The deck, I just coated with 4 coats of epoxy and 4 coats of varnish.
I've had three different engines on her. The first one was a 10 hp
Seahorse, second, an 18 hp Evinrude. I wasn't really happy with the older
engines, although they looked good on the boat. Now I found a 1984 Johnson,
runs like new (very few hours). With this motor, the boat runs around 27 mph
and rides very flat and stable with smart tabs, smallest ones.
The Squirt has no bow rise when accelerating. I
used a small fin on the bottom, so it doesn't slip in turns.
Thanks for your help throughout my boat building
experience. Look forward to my next one.
See in Customer Photos.
Recent email:
From the Boatbuilder Connection
Glen-L in Classic Boating Magazine
Posted by Rob Witte on November 09, 2002 at 07:36:52:
In the November/December issue of Classic Boating there's a great
article and photo of a Glen-L inboard built in the '60's and displayed
at the 2001 Concours d' Elegance. I believe it's a Mist Miss, and one
of the prettiest examples of plywood inboards I've seen.
In all the years I've subscribed to Classic Boating, this is the first
kit boat I recall seeing...quite a tribute to Glen-L!
Sent: Saturday, November 09, 2002 8:34 PM
Subject: union jack
Mr. Gayle Brantuk
I send you photos of the Union Jack Named "Dublin" Built by Arthur
Traynor From Buenos Aires, Argentina.
Thanks
Arthur Traynor
Photos of the steel Union Jack trawler are in Customer Photos
Subject: Riviera
Date: 11-11-02
I'd like to sign in your project registry.
Name: Varno Porovarde
Project: Riviera
Location: Estonia
E-mail: surf@corrsfan.com
Project status (08.nov.2002): Frames on motor stringers. Installing chine and
battens.
All the best
Varno Porovarde
Subject: Link
Date: 10-31-02
Good morning,
I am addressing you with a small request.
I am preparing our new web site, and since the first boat I have ever built
(back in 1984) was an Amigo 22, I wanted to ask you if I could include a link
to your site, and use the Amigo drawings from your site.
I am including a picture of the boat, and should you be interested, I could
send you more. The boat has been built in cold molded technique, for a famous
Croatian circumnavigator, Mr. Joza Horvat. However, the Amigo was intended and
built for coastal cruising only.
I look forward to your kind reply, and remain with best regards.
-- Bob, the wooden boat builder. We build your dreams. Since 1984.
Below is the result of your feedback form. It was on Thursday, October 31,
2002 at 19:55:23
---------------------------------------------------------------------
name: Daniel O. Sayers, Jr.
Comments: I found your web site quite by accident while researching another
modeling project and it has kindled a fire to seriously consider building one
of your designs - Monaco.
A few years ago, I began looking for plans to build a replica Chris Craft
inboard motor boat. In the process, I found a boat builder who produced a very
nice replica in a 23 foot boat; however, in order to get the boat I desired, I
would have to spend about $65,000.00 and then ship the boat from California to
Connecticut.
I have only just begun to explore the wealth of information on Glen-l, bought
your catalogue, and am awaiting delivery of some "How to .." books.
Much planning to do.
You certainly have covered ALL the bases from what I have learned and I'm
confident you will have the answers/materials I will need.
Thanks for the opportunity........
Dan Sayers
People often ask "How much can I save?"... From Bill
Yonescu's email in the Customer Photos
section:
"...Here's some photos of the Monaco, finished similar to the Riviera
already displayed on your photo board #1. Being the second one I built, it came
out a little nicer (my opinion) than the first. It also has the MerCruiser 350
MAG MPI (315 HP) engine and almost reaches 50 mph. Each boat took about 10
months full time (I'm slow) and the raw materials cost about
19K$."
Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Tuesday,
October 22, 2002 at 12:04:18
----------------------------------------------------------------------
name: Forrest Brooks
Comments: I completed a Glen L 19 in 1988. After too long out of the water,
I am in the process of making her seaworthy again. Noticed several folks are in
the Project Registry building the Glen L 19. Hope they enjoy theirs as I have
mine.
Subject: MiniMaxed
Date: 10-22-02
Here are the latest pictures which you requested that we send. My son
Anthony and I built this together over this summer. It will do about 23MPH with
a 5HP and a 9" pitch prop. You can post these on your site since we cannot
find any Minimaxed pictures. Thanks
Philip V. Crusco
Lewes, DE
Photos in Customer Photos
Greg Morrell built the Ski Tow (See WebLetter 40)
Subject: windshield
Date: 10/18/02
Hi Barry. You asked where I got my windshield. Well, after some research, I
found that most places wanted about $400.00 to heat form a windshield and you
still need the moldings for the top & bottom edges. (I have about $160.00
in mine). The plastic I used is 1/8 inch Lexan which is very flexible, but
won't crack or split when bent cold.(I have used a sheet metal brake to put
a peak in a racecar windshield before!) The moldings are a little more tricky.
It involves annealing extruded aluminum stock and then shaping it around a
wooden buck. If you would like more info. I would be glad to take some close up
shots of my windshield and go into more detail of how I shaped the parts to
build mine. Greg.
P.S. thanks for using my photos on your web site.I have a ton more but they are
all 35 mm & I don't have a scanner.
Continue
Subject: T-N-T Update
Date: 10/18/02
Hello,
Here are a couple more pics of my T-N-T. I am running a hopped-up 9.9 Yamaha
with a stock aluminum prop and I an getting 26+ m.p.h. on G.P.S. After I get a
few more hours on the motor, I'll work on it some more. I also have a SS
prop coming for it.
D. Slomke
Photos in Customer Photos
Subject: Re: Play 'N Jane
Date: 10/18/02
Hi Barry
I'm sorry I never came back ( to the Project Registry) but things
were a bit hectic here.
Yes it did float, it performs beautifully and it is my joy and pride.
Every where I go I am asked a hundred question as it is different from the
other boats usually built in Malta.
I am attaching a photo of TONINJA together with some of the crew.
Regards
Albert Zerafa (Malta)
Below is the result of your feedback form. It was submitted on Friday,
October 18, 2002 at 07:56:59
------------------------------------------------------------------
name: Melvin Kooy
Comments: In 1967 I purchased a Glen-L Thunderbolt from a friend of mine who
had built it from plans. His name is Jim Thurmond, he lives in Canoga Park
Calif. I put a Chrysler Hemi in it and enjoyed it for a couple summers of water
skiing and racing on the Colorado river near Parker Arizona, also at Lake
Millerton near Fresno Calif. I sold the boat for $2,500. to a guy I worked with
at Litton Industries in Woodland Hills Calif. It was a beautiful boat that
brought much pleasure. I relocated to northern Colorado near a couple of small
lakes and am now near retirement and looking for a wood working project. I am
interested in the Glen-L 17 sailboat. I intend to order the study plan as a
starter.
Build more boats
GLEN-L boats, of course
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