A place to share YOUR boat building story
Glen-L Marine Designs - 9152 Rosecrans Ave. - Bellflower, CA
90706
In this issue
GLEN-L Update
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Early this month Gayle, Buckshot and I attended the
"West Coast Rendezvous" of Glen-L boatbuilders
at Bethel Island in the Sacramento Delta area of
California. It was a great treat to personally meet some
of our builders and their families, marvel at the
workmanship of their boats, and enjoy the cookin' of
some wonderful cooks & chefs (not to mention the
delicious "home brew" beer). We were also very
happy to once again see DwainCoulton (whom we met at the
"Gathering" last year) and note the tremendous
progress of his Ski King. Of course, not enough can be
said for the planning, organization and promotion done by
DeltaDawg, and the hand-made mini-buoy key chains he made
for everyone! DeltaDawg is really building this annual
event into something no one should miss!
2008 Rendezvous Video (Gayle's first
ever YouTube video)
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We've heard from some of our boatbuilders that
they'll be attending the famous Wooden Boat Show at
Mystic Seaport in Connecticut this coming June and showing
off their Glen-L designed boat(s). When I get reports back
from the show I'll pass them along in an upcoming
WebLetter.
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Personally, I'm really looking forward to the next
"Gathering" of Glen-L boatbuilders at Lake
Guntersville, Alabama this coming October. Last year was a
bit of a whirlwind trip for us due to my scheduling
conflicts, but this year we're planning on a more
leisurely trip so that we can more fully enjoy the company
of some very "interesting" people (if you know
what I mean). I sincerely hope that as many of you as
possible can make the time to get to the gathering.
Whether you're already enjoying your completed craft
on the waters near your home, or your dream boat is still
just a twinkle in your eye, I guarantee that you'll
learn a lot (without even trying) while you have a
wonderful time with a truly fun group of people. And Lake
Guntersville/Guntersville State Park is exceptionally
spectacular!
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Be sure to check the Calendar section below for more
information about these events and several others.
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Thanks so much for the outpouring of emails and letters
and photos this month. Although it makes it more difficult
for me to keep up, it is extremely gratifying for all of
us here at Glen-L when you include us in your fun, and it
makes for a much better WebLetter, too!
Until next month . . .
Editor
Featured Design: Glen-L 25
A trailerable single-
or double-cabin cruising sailboat
I n last month's webletter, we
reprinted an article from the Orange County (California)
Register newspaper about the annual sailing race from Newport
Beach, California to Ensenada, Mexico.
About 380 boats of all sizes and values gathered outside the
Newport Harbor at noon that Friday to depart on the 125-mile
journey to Ensenada, during the 61st annual event touted as
the "world's largest international yacht
race."
At the end of the article, we observed that the beautiful,
lightweight & sleek Glen-L Ensenada 25 is designed for
both comfort and performance and that in its first
Newport-Ensenada Yacht Race the original Ensenada 25 placed
2nd in PHRF Class-G ahead of over 50 other boats, and also
beat winning boats in Classes C, D, E, F, & H on
corrected time.
It should be noted that the Ensenada 25 is actually a
slightly-modified Glen-L 25, which WON the Newport-Ensenada
race in 1979 by a first-time builder…
"A plywood hard-chine Glen-L 25 Solo model named
'Puffer,' built and sailed by Mr. Woody Sanders, took
First Place honors in the PHRF 'G' Class of the 1979 Newport-Ensenada Yacht
Race." Woody and crew finished the 125 mile race in an
elapsed time of 28 hours and 39 minutes. Not only did
Woody's boat win in "G" Class and also beat the
first place "F" Class boat as well (with a
corrected time of just over 19 hours), but came very close to
the overall corrected time winner (a 40' boat) and that
of the famous plywood hard-chine boat the 62' Ragtime
(recently fitted with a new, faster, more efficient
keel).
The race was mostly a downwind run under spinnaker with
heavy wind and
Continue
Deceptive Destroyer
A silent predator is
eating away at your boat: Learn to prevent costly
corrosion...
by Chris Caswell
We'd been struggling to remove the
lower unit of my friend's outboard for an hour, with
distressingly bad results. Three of the four bolts had pulled
out of the cast aluminum drive, and we were now looking
suspiciously at the fourth. With great trepidation (and a flood
of WD-40), the socket wrench went back on and my friend gave it
a tug. It moved slightly, and the entire bolt pulled out,
dropping the drive on the garage floor.
From inside the hollow casting came an explosion of fine grit.
When we picked up the drive and turned it upside down, a sizable
pile of the grit formed on the floor.
"What the heck's that stuff?" my friend asked me.
"I think," I replied sadly, "that it's your
lower unit after electrolysis ate everything else away." We
had solved the mystery of why his prop shaft seemed loose, and
we'd rediscovered why it's so important to make sure the
zinc anode on the lower unit is checked regularly.
What Is Corrosion?
Corrosion is a major problem aboard every boat, and not just on
metal under water, but every metallic item on or inside your
boat. Dampness, salt spray and humidity make corrosion
breed.
The most common type on your boat is galvanic corrosion. This
takes place when two dissimilar metals are submerged in an
electrolyte (a liquid that conducts electricity) with the result
being a battery that generates electrical current. Flowing from
one metal to the other, it eats away at the weakest (least
"noble") of the two metals.
A second type of corrosion is electrolytic, caused by currents
from outside your boat, such as leakage from your shore-power
system or a mild electrical current from a nearby boat.
There are more ordinary types of corrosion as well, such as
rusting and pitting. Iron and steel (your engine block) get a
common reddish-brown rust wherever bare metal is exposed to
dampness. Aluminum doesn't "corrode" but rather
forms a layer of oxidation on the surface that looks like dull
grime and whitish lumps.
Preventing Corrosion
The primary method to defeat both galvanic and electrolytic
corrosion is
Continue
Replacing Sacrificial Anodes
by Steve Noury
I f you're like many people who
keep their boats in the water, you may be neglecting to
periodically replace your sacrificial anodes. Galvanic
corrosion can damage or even destroy the underwater metallic
boat parts. When two different metals are touching each
other, or are electrically connected by an electrically
conductive fluid like fresh or salt water, the "least
noble" of these metals (called the anode) will corrode
faster than it normally would. In this example, Martyr Fresh
Water Magnesium Anodes supplied by West
Marine are installed.
Step 1
A knowledgeable understanding of the problem is the first place
to start. Galvanic corrosion can often happen in a single piece
of hardware - particularly alloys, which contain more than one metal. Interactions
between the differing metals in the alloy will dissolve the
least noble of the two. That's why it's so important to
use marine-grade fasteners (bronze, monel and 316 stainless
steel) in underwater applications so they're not destroyed,
which can cause a hose clamp to fail or your propeller to fall
off. Keep in mind that the higher the salinity and temperature
of the water, the greater the likelihood of corrosion. Breaking
the electrical circuit between exposed metals by connecting them
to a sacrificial anode will prevent galvanic corrosion and
damage to your boat's metal parts. Replacing the anodes is
an inexpensive and easy project.
Continue
Designer's Notebook: Why Not Bung Your Screw
Heads?
Bung, in marine parlance,
means to cover a countersunk counter-bored screw
with a wood plug. In common use, the term
"plug" is synonymous with bung. This is
ordinarily done on the hull, decking or almost any
wood surface that will be finished naturally. The
practice was commonplace on the older classic
runabouts but has currently carried through to
decking and interior surfaces of mahogany or similar
attractive woods.
Screws are counter-bored and plugged with wooden
plugs, preferably cut from scraps from the wood
being bunged. Wood color varies from one piece of
lumber to another so always try to make the plug
from adjacent stock. The depth of counter-bore for
the wood plugs should be about one-third of the
planking thickness.
The plugs are aligned carefully in the
counter-bored holes with the grain parallel to that
of the wood being plugged. Plugs are glued in place
with a waterproof marine adhesive although the
classic runabouts often used varnish. The bungs
should be lightly tapped in place. Don't hit it
too hard, the plug may be crushed and tend to swell
later. Let the adhesive cure overnight. The
protruding plug may be cut with a very sharp chisel,
taking light progressive cuts to determine the run
of the grain. If care is not taken, the plug may
chip off below the surface. Cutting the plugs with a
fine toothed saw (one similar to a back-saw without
the stiffener) will cut the plug virtually to the
surface. Finish out with sandpaper so the bung is
flush to the surrounding surface.
Counter-bored screw holes are best made with a tool
that counter-bores, countersinks, and drills the
lead hole for the screw. A stop collar clamped on
the tool governs the depth of the counter-bore.
There are even tapered bits that have a maximum
diameter matching that of the screw body and taper
to a point. Some use a body with counter-bore and
countersink with an adjustable depth drill bit held
in place with a set-screw (Fig 1). Others are a one
piece tool for a specific screw size and length
(Fig. 2).
Plugs can be purchased ready cut from suppliers,
however, these may not match the wood being used. A
plug cutter tool, best used on a drill press, will
make plugs from scrap cutoffs from the work (Fig.
3). Most counter-bores are for a 3/8" or
½" plug and the plug cutter allows for
clearance in the drilled countersink.
Always equally space bunged screw heads and align
them in straight lines or in a fair arc. The plugged
screws epitomize fine craftsmanship. They are easily
done with the proper tools and the final appearance
will be very pleasing.
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Fig. 1 - Standard drill bit with adjustable
stop collar and locking set screw
incorporating a countersink and counterbore
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Fig. 2 - One piece shank that counterbores,
countersinks, and has tapered bit to match
screw size; equipped with an adjustable stop
collar with locking set screw
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Fig. 3 - One type of plug cutter and plugs
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For more on using wood plugs see "Shop Talk" below . . .
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Calendar
24th
Annual Antique and Wooden Boat Show and Woody Car
Show
June 7 - 8 @ Lake Arrowhead Village, Lake Arrowhead,
California
21st Annual Antique & Classic Boat
Festival
June 13 - 15 @ St. Michaels, Maryland
17th Annual Wooden Boat Show
June 27 - 29 @ Mystic Seaport, Connecticut
32nd Annual Lake Union Wooden Boat
Festival
July 4 - 6 @ Seattle, Washington
Corinthian Yacht Club Wooden Boat
Show
July 12 - 13, @ Tiburon, California
Lake Tahoe Concours d'Elegance
& Wooden Boat Week
August 7 - 13, @ Lake Tahoe, California
Port Townsend Wooden Boat Festival
September 5 - 7, @ Port Townsend, Washington
The Gathering of Glen-L
Boatbuilders
October 25 & 26 @ Lake Guntersville, Alabama
Power Boat Power
When picking an
engine
For a new power boat
We often see this as
An opportunity to gloat
It’s a common emotion
Like standing atop a tower
We go for the biggest motor
To get that feeling of power
We ignore the designer's plan
And get horsepower to exceed
The intended boat velocity
And reach the ultimate speed
We think we need a big engine
That is the way to play the game
We don’t want to leave the ramp
In a boat that will not plane
But too much extra power
Can make the boat unstable
Follow the designer's plan
That’s not a boating fable
Choose an engine wisely
Just keep it safe and nice
Do not overpower your boat
That is my powering advice
If you still want that big motor
And on my advice you pass
Just remember one more thing . . .
Four dollars a gallon for gas!
-ArtDeco
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"The
important thing is not being afraid to take a
chance.
Remember, the greatest failure is to not
try."
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Shop Talk: Using Wood Plugs
Woodscrews are a sure-fire way
to assemble a project securely. The problem is there
are times when you don't want the screw heads to
show. Simple problem right? Just counterbore the
screw hole and then use a wood plug like the ones
shown above to cover up the head of the
screw.
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The
type of plug you use and how you install it can make
a big difference in how it looks. For instance, most
store-bought plugs are cut from the end of a dowel.
So they absorb stain or finish like a sponge. This
makes the plugs darker than the surrounding wood so
they end up standing out like a sore
thumb.
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An easy
way to get around this is to cut your own plugs.
This way, you can cut a face grain plug that will
absorb finish more easily. Another advantage is that
you can use the scrap pieces remaining from a
project to create an almost invisible plug, as shown
in the upper photo at right. Or maybe you'd like
to highlight the plug by using a type of wood that
contrasts in color, as shown in the lower
photo.
Regardless of the
look, you still want the plug to fit the hole like a
cork in a bottle. To do this, follow the simple
six-step process detailed below.
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1.
With a plug cutter chucked in a drill press, cut
the plugs in a scrap piece from the project. Be sure
to make a few extra. This way, you'll be able to
select a plug that best matches the color and grain
of your project.
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2.
The next step is to free the plugs from the
workpiece. To do this, clamp a tall auxiliary fence
to the bandsaw table and cut the plugs so they drop
free.
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3.
With a pile of plugs in front of you, it's
tempting to start gluing them in place. But take a
minute to select just the right plug for each hole
that matches the grain and color of the surrounding
wood.
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4.
To avoid a big mess, don't apply glue to the
plug. Instead, brush glue around the sides of the
hole. Then tap the plugs in place. Just don't
overdo it. The plug doesn't have to "bottom
out." All you're looking for is a snug
fit.
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5.
Now it's just a matter of removing the part of
the plug sticking above the workpiece. To avoid
scratching the workpiece, slip a scrap of
posterboard (or plastic laminate) with a hole in it
over the plug as you saw off the waste.
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6.
With the excess waste removed, all that's left
to do is sand each of the plugs flush with the
surface of the workpiece. A block and some sandpaper
make quick work of this.
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Recent eMail:
Subject: Gayle's Build your Dream Boat Newsletter
Date: 30 April 2008
I enjoyed your write up of your memories of your father and
family and boat building. Glen-L has always been a part of my
boating memories also. In the middle to late sixties and early
seventies, I lived on my grandfather’s ranch in central
Texas and spent many hours boat dreaming with a blue paperback
Glen-L catalog. How this catalog came to be on a cattle ranch in
the middle of Texas, I have no clue, but I sure lived a lot of
dreams between those pages.
I even made several attempts to build a boat from the pictures
in the catalog, one even floated and worked fairly well on our
stock pond even though I made it clinker fashion out of pine
boards. I moved on to plastic ski boats and the need for speed
until I discovered sailing on a friend’s Hobie cat.
Even though I loved the water, I made a career of the Air Force
and managed to own a boat of some sort in every country I
was stationed in, mainly
sail boats. With larger sailboats came the need for a dinghy and
thus the return to Glen-L and boat building. I even dreamed of
building one of your large sailboats, but just could not find
the time it would take. I built several of your dinks in pursuit
of the perfect tender, the largest being the Row Me. I enjoyed building everyone of them
and they were good boats. We even owned a custom built 38’
wood ketch for several years and the experience I gained from
building dinks from your plans was invaluable for maintaining
it.
I retired from the USAF about ten years ago and now live and
work on Okinawa. My family and I sail a heavily modified Morgan
Out Island 41, which we rebuilt and modified to our desires. We
are now prepping it for extended cruising as soon as our son
graduates high school this June……… I still
have one of those blue catalogs………
-- John, Naomi & Wes Howard
SV Horizon, Okinawa, Japan
Subject: Memories
Date: 30 April 2008
Gayle, it sounds like you had a great childhood. I grew up
spending my summers at Lake Almanor. We started building our
cabin when I was nine. By the time I was twelve, my mom, brother
and I were spending the whole summer and my dad would come up
for his vacations (four weeks). I built my first power boat when
I was in seventh grade, and that was my transportation around
the lake. When I decided sailing would be fun, I build a Glen-L
Eight Ball. It was a wedding present for my
brother. I missed having the little boat so I built a second
one. When a friend needed a tender to get out to his ski boat, I
gave him Eight Ball number two. I have since build a third one
which I still have. This third one also served as the ice chest
for our rehearsal dinner when I got married. The rehearsal was a
beach party, so we drove the boat to our spot on the beach and
then loaded it. Somewhere along that string of boats, I also
built a Stiletto. Next best ski boat to a
competition ski boat.
Now I live at Monterrey bay, and I am looking for a new boat.
Lots of choices out there. Great new boats, but pricey. Used
boats are always an option. I think my next boat will probably
come from Glen-L. That seems to be where the best custom boats
at a reasonable price can be found.
-- Lew Green
Monterey, CA
Subject: Gayle's Newsletter
Date: 30 April 2008
Dear Gayle, thanks for the "personal" letter this
time. You jarred a memory in myself as well. My dad was a boat
dealer for years; he never built boats but did repairs for
people and he would would give me the pink resin that hardened
in the bottom of cups and all the neighborhood kids thought I
had the most unique hockey pucks and they were homemade!
Thanks for your emails. I am in the middle of two kayaks and
two more canoes are right on their tail.
When I retire from teaching I would love to teach boat
building. It brings great pleasure.
Keep doing the great job you have been doing.
God Bless,
-- Steve Zill
Subject: Gayle's Newsletter
Date: 1 May 2008
Great stories Gayle. I am still a-ways out of starting my build,
and reading your stories is a great way to pass the time in
anticipation. I have two sons, now 10 and 7 yrs old, that will
be helping me and I only hope when they are our age they tell
stories like yours.
-- Corey Duberstein
Richland, WA
Subject: Gayle's Newsletter
Date: 30 April 2008
I have to tell you that I thoroughly enjoyed this "Build
your dream boat #16..." Your stories were wonderful and
made me think of the adventures or misadventures that I had
growing up on White Lake in New York State (home of the first
Woodstock festival).
When I was 8 I was lucky enough to have an old wooden row boat
float up on shore in front of my house...I immediately pulled it
up on shore and bailed out the 1000 or so gallons of water that
completely filled her...it took me hours but I had dreams of
cruising the lake in my new find.
Back in those days (1959) it was common for old row boats to be
set adrift when people didn't want to repair them or pay to
have them hauled away. Anyway I pulled it out of the water with
the help of my two cousins who were 18 and 20
respectively.
My uncle Lou who was the handiest person alive helped me repair
the boat by replacing bottom boards that had rotted out. I
painted the thing and made it look great...at least through an 8
year olds eyes. We got an old Scott at water 3hp engine and I
started my boating career.
When I turned 15 my uncle helped me build your dad's Tiny Mite 8' hydro then when I was in my
20's I built the TNT which my son resurrected a while
back...presently building the Crackerbox. So I started like you...and
still love it. Thanks for igniting my memory bank.
Warm Regards,
-- Michael Wasserman
Subject: Webletter 100
Date: 7 May 2008
Thank you for the "Boatbuilding 101" book!! Seriously,
all of your Webletters and emails really help to not only plan
for a better build, but give inspiration for those that have
already begun.
I will certainly look forward to the read and also to the next
Webletter. Thanks again!!!!
-- Rob Miller
Subject: Webletter 100
Date: 1 May 2008
Just so you know, I enjoy the WebLetters - -they are helpful and
inspiring.
-- Wayne Cooper
Subject: Webletter 100
Date: 1 May 2008
Really like the soft jazz accompaniment to the WebLetter. Keeps
me coming back!
-- J.R. Sloan
Subject: Center of Buoyancy
Date: 7 May 2008
I am fascinated by Glen's explanation of Center of Buoyancy
and Center of Gravity for each component part.
In inboard hydro-racing, we often had the luxury of being able
to move the engine fore-aft a few inches to balance the boat and
on a windy day moving the CG forward could allow greater speeds
if racing into a head wind.
I guess moving the battery is the easiest way to adjust the
balance since they are small volume but "right
heavy".
I love this WebLetter!
-- Jay Degges
Subject: Glen-L Order
Date: 19 May 2008
Just a short note to let you know that the catalogue that I
ordered on May 8, 2008 arrived safely on Friday, May 16, 2008.
That's pretty good time for a package from the U. S. that
wasn't couriered.
I've only had a brief opportunity to glance through the
catalogue, but it immediately sent me back to my teens, and the
first boats that I built. You and Popular Mechanics were all the
incentive that I needed to get started.
And no, I'm not going to tell you how long ago it was. Just
that you can count it in decades more easily than in
years!
I look forward to a more in depth study of the catalogue, your
newsletters and future building with my nephew and nieces. Yes,
the girls love building things with me.
Thank you again.
-- C. Goad
Aurora, Ontario, Canada
eMail of the Month
Subject: Project Registry: Fancy Free
Date: 20 May 2008
Hi, my name is Chuck Perkins and I hail out of Reno,
NV. Recent earthquake swarms, a depressed real
estate market and a grown daughter that has recently
fallen back into the nest have all conspired to dash
my midlife crisis dream of retirement and
floating/motoring off into the sunset. Glen-L to the
rescue. My garage is now my refuge and a set of
Fancy Free plans my sustinence. I am well into the
planning and learning phase. So well, in fact, that
I am about ready to flip a coin when it comes to
crucial decisions, some of which, if my research is
correct, suggests that blood has been spilled in
defense of opposing positions.... Doug Fir ply or
Okueme? Doug Fir frames or White Oak? Encapsulation
or just fg the exterior hull and deck? Cpes? 4 oz, 6
oz, 10 oz. or other? Scarf or block? Hull
insulation? And where do you find those cool Bronze
ports while only paying half of a king's ransom.
Arrrrgh! (Arrrrgh is a word that came from pirates
who obviously built their own boats).
After the coin toss - I am going with DF
planking,,, IF I can find a quality source. The
"DF checks" talk has me slightly rattled.
DF for frames and still slightly clueless for
everything else. I have decided to encapsulate. West
System 105/207 or similar. Currently, I am trying a
repackaged epoxy on a new, obscenely expensive
Ida-Sailor mahogany rudder. Great price and sales
pitch, If it doesn't work you will probably
never hear from me again as the vendor source info
will have already gone to the grave with me. I'm
going with scarfing the plywood -- I ain't
afraid. My mind is whispering 3/4 rigid insulation
from Home Depot. I have a sick fascination with fit
assembling the boat with copious numbers of dry wall
screws then dissassembling the whole thing,
encapsulating every thing except the exterior
surfaces, redrilling, gluing and assembling with
epoxy slathered Glen-L bronze screws and finally
fiberglassing the hull and deck.
Good project for a lunatic with a life
sentence.
Seriously, any correspondence from current/former
Fancy Free builders would be extremely appreciated.
Please send to
Arrrgh!
-- Charles Perkins
Reno, NV
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